# Amp My Home > Stories and challenges about home upgrades, energy, automation and electrification. Public Ghost content for AI and LLM tooling. This file includes a bounded export of public pages first, then recent public posts. Append `.md` to any post or page URL to get the content in Markdown (for example, `/example-post.md`). ## Pages ### About URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/about/ Last updated: 2026-02-25T19:47:05.000Z ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/IMG_1516-1-1.jpeg) My 1960 Mid-Century Modern Ranch House When you buy a 50+ year old midcentury modern ranch house from the original owners you realize a couple things - first, it has a lot of character, and second, there’s a lot of old stuff that needs updating. This site is meant to tell the story of updating, modernizing and electrifying my own home, and share the story of others, so that you can learn how to make your own journey better. *verb: *amp* INFORMAL•NORTH AMERICAN make (someone) feel excited and full of energy.* *noun: *amp* short for *ampere*, the unit of measure for electrical current.* ### Index URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/index/ Last updated: 2026-08-04T01:01:40.000Z ## [Electricity - Why Electrify?](https://www.ampmyhome.com/why-electrify/) ### [Energy Units of Measure](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/energy-units-of-measure-in-the-home/) ### [Electric Service Upgrade](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/) ### [Panels and Circuits](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/electrical-panels-upgrade-or-replace-smart-or-not/) ### [Electric Meters](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/how-does-an-electric-meter-work/) ### Electricity Billing ### [Electricity Time of Use](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/can-time-of-use-electricity-rates-save-you-money/) ### The Electric Grid ### [Virtual Power Plants (VPPs)](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/virtual-power-plant-vpp-trials-bay-area/) ### [Top 6 Electricity Usage in the Home](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/what-appliances-use-the-most-electricity-in-residential-homes/) ## Appliances ### [Refrigerator](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/how-much-electricity-does-a-refrigerator-use/) ### [Clothes Dryer](https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/gas-or-electric-dryer-which-is-better/) ### [Stove](https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/i-like-cooking-on-gas-is-an-induction-stove-better/) ### [TVs](https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/how-many-watts-does-a-tv-use/) ## Solar ### How it Works ### Solar Panels ### Solar Inverters ### Net Energy Metering ### Off-Grid Solar ### [Return on Investment - Is Solar Worth It?](https://www.ampmyhome.com/solar/is-solar-worth-it-anymore/) ## Natural Gas / Methane ### Gas Piping ### Gas Meters ### Gas Billing ### Natural Gas Rates ## Hot Water ### [Heat Pump Water Heater](https://www.ampmyhome.com/hot-water/heat-pump-water-heaters-should-you-replace-your-gas-heater/) ### Electric Resistance Water Heater ### Gas Storage Water Heater ### On Demand Water Heater ### Hot Water Recirculation ## Heat and Air Conditioning (HVAC) ### Space Heaters ### Furnace ### Air Conditioner (Central) ### Air Conditioner (Room) ### Mini Split ## Energy Efficiency ### Insulation ### Windows ### Lighting / Light Bulbs ## Batteries and Home Storage ### Battery Backup ### Can Batteries save you money? ### [Why are home batteries so expensive?](https://www.ampmyhome.com/batteries/why-are-home-battery-systems-so-expensive/) ## Home Automation ### Thermostats ### WiFi and Networking ### Apple HomeKit ### Amazon Alexa ### Google Home ### Home Assistant ### Energy Management ## EVs and Car Charging ### EV Electric Rate Plans ### EV Charger ## [Case Studies](https://www.ampmyhome.com/case-studies/) ## Posts ### I like cooking on gas. Is an induction stove better? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/i-like-cooking-on-gas-is-an-induction-stove-better/ Last updated: 2026-08-04T01:01:21.000Z I like cooking on gas. I like the simplicity of the knob, the visual feedback of the flame, the fact that turning it up and down does something immediately. When people tell me an induction stove is better, I'm interested, but skeptical — and I wonder what I'd be giving up. ![blue and black gas stove flame](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1598659979207-f9c1d9456a27?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDM1fHxnYXMlMjBidXJuZXJ8ZW58MHx8fHwxNzg1NTEyODUzfDA&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) Gas stove burner. Photo: [Aidan Tottori](https://unsplash.com/@atoto%5Fphoto?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) Induction uses an electromagnetic field to heat the pan directly — no flame, no hot burner surface, no combustion in your kitchen. It's a genuinely different technology from the electric coil ranges I learned to hate, and that distinction matters more than almost anything else in this decision. ![Induction stove with electromagnetic waves heating pan](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/08/ind-potMagLines400.jpg) Induction stove “burner". Electromagnetic field heats the pan directly. Photo: [Edison Tech Center](https://edisontechcenter.org/InductionCooking.html?ref=ampmyhome.com) Here's what I found, and some of it cuts against the usual pitch. Induction won't save you money on your energy bill — the running cost difference is well under $100 a year either direction for most households. The [health evidence got dramatically stronger](#the-health-evidence-changed-this-year) this year, in a way that changes the calculation, particularly if anyone in your house has asthma. The three objections many people raise — [losing the knob control](#you-dont-have-to-lose-the-knob), my [pans won’t work](#my-pans-wont-work), and losing [wok cooking](#losing-the-wok) — are more solvable than they sound. The thing that probably decides it isn't the stove at all. It's whether you have a [240V outlet behind your range](#if-you-have-240V-already---or youre-remodeling). If you do, switching costs a few hundred dollars more than a replacement gas range. If you don't, you're looking at $1,000 to $4,000 more, and that's a real “value” question only you can decide. Jump to: [TL;DR - What’s the answer?](#the-short-version) And also: [So, did I switch?](#some-footnotes) ## What you don’t want to give up Let's start here, because many articles on this topic don't. Gas has advantages, and if you cook seriously you know most of them. The big one is control. You turn the knob and the heat changes, immediately, and you can see exactly how much. There's no lag, no guessing, no waiting to find out whether you turned it down enough. Everything else on this list is a convenience; this is the reason people fight for gas. ![A close up of a stove top oven in a kitchen](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1723902500126-976d1d7caab9?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDI3fHxidXJuZXIlMjBrbm9ifGVufDB8fHx8MTc4NTUxMzM2MXww&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) Gas stove control knobs. Photo: [Taylor Friehl](https://unsplash.com/@taylor%5Ffriehl?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) It's worth separating that into two things, though, because they come apart later. One is **responsiveness** — how fast the heat actually changes. The other is **feedback** — how easily you can tell where you are without thinking about it. Gas gives you both at once, and the *flame is doing double duty as both the heat source and the display*. Hold onto that distinction. After that, the advantages are practical. Gas is less picky about cookware: copper, aluminum, and thin stainless all work fine. Induction only heats ferromagnetic pans (the kind a magnet sticks to), so anything copper or aluminum is out. The gas stove system is simple. If your range dies tomorrow, another gas range is the cheapest thing you can put in its place — $800 to $2,000 installed. It’s hard to beat that replacement cost-wise. There's durability. Cast iron grates are effectively indestructible; you can drop a cast iron skillet on a gas burner and nothing happens. Induction cooktops (and some regular electric ones) have glass tops, and glass can crack. Replacing the surface runs $300 to $800, which on a mid-range unit gets close to the cost of buying a new one. That's a failure mode gas doesn't have. You already know how your stove behaves. That's not nostalgia — every appliance transition costs you a few burnt dinners while you recalibrate. The big objections people raise about switching is about **money** and **wiring**, and those get their own section below. But others are about the cooking itself, and they deserve a straight answer: losing the knob, my pans won’t work, and losing the wok. But first, two things on this list need unpacking. The first is **what you're actually comparing gas** to. The second is the **power outage advantage** of gas, which is true for the burners – but false for the oven. ### Gas earned its reputation against electric coil — not against induction If your mental image of "electric stove" is a coil element or a black glass smooth-top, your skepticism is well earned. Those stoves take forever to heat and just as long to cool — you pull a pot off a boil and the element sits there glowing, still dumping heat out. Anyone who has fought a boil-over or a scorched pan on a coil burner understands why people defend gas. ![white and black electric coil oven](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1545277104-5edff5eb9cd8?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDExfHxlbGVjdHJpYyUyMHN0b3ZlfGVufDB8fHx8MTc4NTUxMzQ4NXww&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) An electric coil stove top. Photo: [Ben Breitenstein](https://unsplash.com/@composit?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) But that's a comparison against resistance heating, and it doesn't transfer. Coil elements heat a surface, which heats your pan. Induction skips that — the pan itself is the heating element. Turn it down and the power drops right then, the same way a flame does. Gas earned its reputation fairly against the electric coil, which it beats decisively. Induction is a different technology that happens to share a plug. If you've never cooked on one, there's a decent chance you're holding a well-founded objection to a stove that isn't the one being discussed. ### The outage advantage is half true This is one people bring up, and it's worth checking. If the power goes out, a gas stove keeps cooking — that's the claim; it's half right. Your burners will [probably](https://www.houzz.com/discussions/3403636/warning-not-all-gas-burners-will-work-when-the-power-goes-out?ref=ampmyhome.com) work. There's no spark without electricity, but the gas still flows, so you can hold a lit match to the burner and turn the knob to low. Manufacturers document this. ![white top mount refrigerator beside white wooden door](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1623092242739-5a382879cec9?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDJ8fG92ZW4lMjBkYXJrJTIwa2l0Y2hlbnxlbnwwfHx8fDE3ODU1MTM1OTJ8MA&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) Dark kitchen during power outage. Photo: [Tyler Chandler](https://unsplash.com/@tylerchandlerr?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) Your oven will not. Modern gas ovens don't have a pilot light — they use a glow bar igniter that runs on 120V, and the gas valve only opens as long as it senses the igniter drawing current. No power, no draw, no gas. That's a safety interlock, not an oversight, which means there's no workaround: you can't light it with a match, and you shouldn't try. GE's own support documentation puts it plainly — the surface burners can be lit with a match, the oven cannot. ![Glow bar igniter in gas oven.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/07/e4e54b50a19f4b7aaa1f715801008fb8-1.jpg) Glow bar ignition in a gas oven. Photo: [Guaranteed Parts](https://www.guaranteedparts.com/blog/igniter-problems/?ref=ampmyhome.com) So in an outage you can boil water, fry an egg, heat soup. You can't bake or broil. This is a narrower advantage than it's usually described, and it matters later, because there's a version of induction that beats gas outright on this. ## It's the burners, not the oven There's something I noticed cooking on both gas and electric: I have no particular attachment to a gas oven. In fact, I hate them. Nobody else is attached to them either, as far as I can tell. When people defend gas, they're defending the cooktop — the flame, the knob, the instant response. The appliance industry figured this out a long time ago. There's an entire product category built around this preference: the dual-fuel range, which pairs gas burners with an electric oven. Pro-style ranges come in gas or dual-fuel, and the reason dual-fuel exists is that plenty of serious cooks want the burners without wanting the oven that comes attached to them. Now, nobody makes an electric cooktop with a gas oven. There's no market for it. The asymmetry tells you everything: the case for gas runs one direction, to the cooktop. And as we covered, the gas oven doesn't even deliver the one thing people assume gas gives you. It won't light without power. So - is induction better at the one thing gas is genuinely good at? That's a harder question and a more interesting one, and it's what the rest of this comes down to. ## You don't have to lose the knob Remember the split from earlier: responsiveness and feedback. On responsiveness, induction wins — pretty consistently. It puts more power into the pan going up, and coming down it doesn't have a hot cast-iron grate radiating into your pan the way gas does. A [2019 study of residential cooktops](https://www.caetrm.com/media/reference-documents/Induction-Range-Final-Report-July-2019.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) found induction had the best temperature response of the three technologies, with gas in the middle. The practical difference is smaller than that sounds, because both are limited by the thermal mass of the pan itself — but if you've been assuming gas has an edge here, it doesn't. What you lose is feedback. The flame was doing two jobs, only one of them was heating your food. But here's the thing: that's a design choice, not physics. Nothing about induction requires a touch panel. Manufacturers went that direction because glass slabs photograph well and enable smart features, not because cooks asked for them. And the implementation is frequently bad. Water on the surface shuts a burner off mid-cook and you have to dry the glass before it'll restart. Capacitive panels need bare skin contact, so wet or gloved hands do nothing — Samsung's own support documentation says as much. Adjusting heat means finding the right spot and tapping repeatedly instead of grabbing something and turning it. One cook on [Kitchen Knife Forums](https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/experiences-with-touch-controls-on-ranges.67472/?ref=ampmyhome.com) put it well: the problem isn't that they're touch controls, it's that the implementation is terrible across the significant majority of what's available. Even [Consumer Reports' editor](https://www.consumerreports.org/appliances/ranges/change-gas-stove-to-induction-range-lessons-learned-a8203454874/?ref=ampmyhome.com), writing about his own switch, noted that the only visual feedback on his range was a red LED strip — and that the control markings didn't match his expectations enough that he and his wife burned their first couple of dinners. ### The fix is boring: buy one with knobs. ![Induction stove with large red control knobs.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/07/VEKNDIESBU_p115427-1.jpg) Induction stove with red control knobs. Photo: [Verona Appliances](https://www.veronaappliances.com/product/verona-vekndiesbu/?ref=ampmyhome.com) They exist, they're just not the default, and you have to filter for them deliberately. Coming from gas, treat knobs as a requirement rather than a nice-to-have, and check for them before you fall for a model on looks.[1](#fn1-22972) ## My pans won’t work Induction stoves use magnetics to heat a pan. What this means is that your pans must be ‘ferromagnetic’ - meaning, they contain steel or iron - aluminum and copper pans won’t work. This seemed like a show-stopper to me... would I need to throw away the All-Clad set we got as a wedding gift? What about that super-lightweight non-stick aluminum fry pan, would that need to go, too? But as it turned out, almost all of our pans worked fine with a [loaner induction plate](#try-it-before-you-decide) we borrowed: - **2 Lodge cast-iron fry pans** \- No problem. These are our workhorses, they actually work much better than any non-stick pans I've used, and don’t have the downside health, high-heat limitations, and durability issues of non-stick pans. They’re [reasonably priced](https://www.lodgecastiron.com/collections/all-products/products/round-cast-iron-classic-skillet?variant=51685752242548&ref=ampmyhome.com). ![grilled meat on black round plate](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1615557960916-5f4791effe9d?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDE2fHxsb2RnZSUyMHBhbnxlbnwwfHx8fDE3ODU0MzE4MDB8MA&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) Cast iron sauté pan. Photo: [Cisco Lin](https://unsplash.com/@cok3nosugar?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) - **A vintage midcentury modern** [**Dansk pot**](https://www.aroundtheblock.com/blogs/news/vintage-dansk?ref=ampmyhome.com) inherited from my mom - No problem. This is our work-horse for boiling water and making pasta. ![Dansk mid century modern casserole pan.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/08/yellowcaseroledansk-1.png) Dansk steel-and-enamel casserole pot. Photo: [Woodland Mod](https://woodlandmod.com/collections/dansk-kitchenware/products/dansk-kobenstyle-casserole?ref=ampmyhome.com) - **The All-Clad set** \- A surprise to me, also no problem! The model we have has a middle layer of aluminum bonded to steel on the inside and outside. This was enough. - **A 7-inch non-stick aluminum fry pan** \- A no-go. However, some experts suggest you should [discard old (pre-2015) non-stick pans anyway](https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/give-up-on-ceramic-nonstick-pans/?ref=ampmyhome.com), particularly if the non-stick coating is scratched. There are lots of available pans that will work with induction, and yours may already work, too. You can tell by holding a small magnet up to your pan - if it sticks, it’ll work with induction. Trying your pans out with a loaner induction plate will be even more definitive. ## Losing the wok [Kenji López-Alt](https://www.kenjilopezalt.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) wrote *The Wok*, and he's blunt about what home cooks are working with: you can't replicate a 200,000-BTU restaurant wok range in a standard kitchen, and regular home gas burners don't put out enough heat to come close. Restaurant wok burners run 95,000 to 150,000 BTU. A high-end home range tops out near 30,000\. Most are closer to 12,000. ![A wok on a stove with flames in it](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1723967052599-93403a001bb1?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDR8fHdva3xlbnwwfHx8fDE3ODU0MzE0NzN8MA&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) Your home stove can’t do this. Photo by [Max Griss](https://unsplash.com/@grissphoto?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) So your gas stove wasn't producing real [wok hei](https://www.nytimes.com/2020/09/04/dining/stir-fry-recipe-wok-hei.html?unlocked%5Farticle%5Fcode=1.1VA.M2a3.tyrzezZXbu-F&smid=url-share&ref=ampmyhome.com) either. It gets worse for gas. Western burners are built to spread flame across a pan bottom — the opposite of what a wok wants, which is heat concentrated in the center. López-Alt notes a small 12,000 BTU butane burner often beats a wide gas burner for exactly this reason. The bigger practical problem isn't flame anyway — it's geometry. A round-bottom wok touches a flat induction surface across maybe 10% of its base, so you lose most of the power. Get a flat-bottom carbon steel wok and use a 3,000W+ burner zone. López-Alt recommends flat-bottom on gas too, for what it's worth. ## What do you gain? We’ve reviewed the case for gas, narrowed down to what it really is. The oven was never the point. The induction controls problem is a design failure, not a physics one, and it's avoidable if you shop for it. The wok argument evaporates once you look at what a home burner actually delivers. What's left is a genuinely good cooktop that you already know how to use. Is what else you get in return worth it? Here's what's on that side of the equation — including one thing that isn't, which is where many articles on this topic go wrong. ### The cooking advantages - **Speed**. Heidi Swanson of [101 Cookbooks](https://www.101cookbooks.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) line after switching sums it up — she thinks of all the weeks of her life wasted waiting for water to boil, and calls the speed alone a game changer. Benchmarks back it: induction reaches a rolling boil roughly 30–40% faster than even high-BTU gas, because 85–90% of the energy reaches the pan versus 40–50% on gas. This video of the Impulse induction cooktop is astounding: Fast boil on an induction stove. - **Low simmer.** Gas is the one that struggles here. Swanson's pet peeve is that gas burners often cut out, or don't allow for a true low simmer — induction holds nuanced control at the low end. The [2019 Frontier Energy cooktop study ](https://www.caetrm.com/media/reference-documents/Induction-Range-Final-Report-July-2019.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com)found induction had the best temperature response of the three technologies. - **Cleanup**. Nothing bakes onto a surface that isn't hot. Spills wipe off, and there are no grates to pull and scrub. - **A cooler kitchen**. Gas burners dump over half of their energy into the room rather than your food. (And their companion gas ovens dump 2-3 times the heat into your kitchen than their electric equivalents.) ### The health evidence changed this year Burning things indoors produces gases you'd rather not breathe. That isn't controversial — it's combustion. Gas furnaces and water heaters vent this outside. A gas stove puts nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide, and other combustion byproducts into your kitchen every time you use it, whereas with induction nothing is burning. ![Diagram of natural gas combustion and by-products.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/07/image_50d82742.png) Gas combustion and by-products. Image AI generated by Gemini. The part people underestimate is ventilation. A lot of range hoods don't actually vent anywhere — recirculating hoods pull air through a filter and blow it back into the room, which does nothing for combustion gases. Plenty of kitchens have no hood at all. And even properly vented hoods only help if you turn them on, which many people don't. Stanford researchers found nitrogen dioxide from gas stoves showing up in bedrooms well away from the kitchen and staying elevated for hours after the burners were off. ![A stove top oven sitting in front of a brick wall](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1732552933805-d374dec7529e?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDY1fHxnYXMlMjBzdG92ZSUyMHZlbnRpbGF0aW9ufGVufDB8fHx8MTc4NTQzMjczOXww&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) Gas stove and vent hood. Photo: [Brett Jordan](https://unsplash.com/@brett%5Fjordan?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) Until recently, the evidence linking this to health outcomes was observational — you could show correlation between gas stoves and asthma, but not more. That changed this year. A [study published in July 2026 in the *Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology: In Practice*](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2213219826005374?ref=ampmyhome.com) took 85 people with poorly controlled asthma and replaced their gas stoves with induction - just like you might do. Indoor nitrogen dioxide dropped about 70%. Their asthma went from moderate to mild on average. Emergency room visits and hospitalizations fell roughly 70%, and missed work and school days dropped about 80%. > ...80% of our study participants experienced meaningful improvements \[by replacing gas stoves with induction\] - [Dr. Ashwini Sehgal](https://medicalxpress.com/news/2026-07-gas-stoves-electric-greatly-asthma.html?ref=ampmyhome.com) The researchers noted the improvement was comparable to what you'd see from taking an asthma medication. **What makes it different**: the study included an intervention, not just a survey. They changed one thing - the stove - and measured what happened. **Who this matters to**: if someone in your house has asthma or another respiratory condition, this is the strongest argument to make the change. Even if nobody does and you have a hood that vents outside and you use it, it's still a factor to consider. ### What's not on this list — running cost Gas, electric coil, and induction stoves differ only slightly in running costs. Nationally, per [Consumer Reports](https://www.consumerreports.org/appliances/top-appliances-with-low-annual-usage-cost-a4554776989/?ref=ampmyhome.com), gas stoves average about $69-116 per year, induction around $83-112, and standard electric coil roughly $89-136\. These numbers flip in some regions depending on utility costs. My own daily use of a gas cooktop (no oven) is 1-2 therms monthly, roughly $5-10/mo. For most households, the annual difference will be small in either direction. Although energy cost differences over years can add up, this alone is not a compelling reason to switch — or to stick with - your current stove. ### A word about greenhouse gas Does swapping out of a gas stove reduce your carbon footprint? Yes, but if this matters to you there are other things much more impactful you can do first: - You’d have to replace **31 gas stoves** to equal replacing **1 gas car** with an EV - Replacing your **furnace** with a heat pump equals replacing **16 gas stoves** - Replacing your **gas water heater** with a heat pump water heater equals replacing **7 gas stoves** From just a greenhouse gas impact-per-dollar-spent, that [hot water heater replacement](https://www.ampmyhome.com/hot-water/heat-pump-water-heaters-should-you-replace-your-gas-heater/) costs less and makes a bigger dent than your stove does. ## Try it before you decide When I was looking at stoves, I [borrowed, for free, a single-burner induction plate from PG&E](https://pge-induction.myturn.com/library/?ref=ampmyhome.com), my local utility. Even though it plugged into a standard outlet, it could boil water faster than the highest power burner on my gas stove! ![Free loaner induction hob and pan](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/08/cooktop-stock-FEBD0038-C8EC-7A3D-96B9-8556AC5B0829-medium@2x.png) A free loaner induction cooktop / hob, courtesy PG&E utility. Source: [PG&E](https://pge-induction.myturn.com/library/inventory/show/909412?ref=ampmyhome.com) The controls were clunky, as pointed out above - no knobs - but it gave me a good sense of what the performance of induction is like, and it was surprisingly good for a portable plug-in device. A free try-before-you-buy is well worth it, as long as you keep in mind the limitations of a portable “hob” device - limited power, likely simple and clunky controls. Places to look into for free trials - your electric utility ([SCE](https://sceinduction.myturn.com/library/?ref=ampmyhome.com) also has them), your local library (ex: [San Mateo](https://www.cityofsanmateo.org/4621/Technology-Lending?ref=ampmyhome.com)). Or you can buy one on Amazon/Walmart/Home Depot for as low as $50. ## Now the question that decides it Switching from gas to induction almost always costs more than replacing gas with gas. A comparable unit itself is pricier, and if you don’t have a 240V outlet, the electrical work adds to the total. Here’s the rough cost comparison: | Upgrade Type | Estimated Cost | | ------------------------------- | -------------- | | Gas → Gas | $600–$2,200+ | | Induction (existing 240V) | $1,000–$2,800+ | | Induction (needs new circuit) | $2,400–$3,400+ | | Induction (needs panel upgrade) | $3,500–$5,600+ | | 120V Battery Induction | $4,000–$6,000+ | ### If you have 240V already - or you’re remodeling In this case, the premium is small. The induction unit might cost a few hundred more, but the electrical work is either zero or folded into your remodel. Essentially, the benefits of induction — faster boiling, easier cleanup, and better indoor air — come almost free. While gas-range homes usually lack 240V, if your house previously had an electric range, or was pre-wired for it, you might be ready to go. ![240V plug needed for induction stove](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/08/6cd17b00-f656-4c6e-9d14-1797551e8c28_512x288.webp) 240V plug on right, for induction range. May also be hardwired. Photo: [Yale Appliance](https://blog.yaleappliance.com/induction-vs-gas-cooking?ref=ampmyhome.com) ### If you don’t have 240V: Is it worth $2,000–$5,000? This is where it becomes a heavier lift. If your panel is maxed out, upgrading it to support a new 240V circuit can push the project well over $4,000\. But if you're in this boat, there are now 120V battery-backed ranges designed for exactly this situation: - Copper “[Charlie](https://copperhome.com/products/charlie?ref=ampmyhome.com)” — 30" range, 5 kWh battery, supports 3–6 meals on battery backup during outages, load-shifts for off-peak use. - [Impulse](https://www.impulselabs.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) — 30"/36" cooktop, 3 kWh battery, \~30-second boil by using the battery to “boost” power. - [Electra](https://www.electra.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) — 30" range, 5 kWh battery, with physical knobs; includes install + haul-away. - Summit — no battery, less expensive - it limits simultaneous burner count and oven use to fit within limits of a 120v outlet. These work well: a [CalMTA field study](https://calnext.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/ET23SWE0064%5F120V-Induction-Stoves-with-Battery-Backup%5FFinal-Report.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) showed battery ranges supported 99.98% of 6,175 cooking events. While stoves with batteries are expensive, you have to look at the right baseline. A $6,000 battery induction range seems steep against a $1,200 gas model, but compared to an induction range plus electrical and panel work (\~$5,000), it’s competitive, and avoids the headaches of permits, inspections, rewiring, and wall patching. Lastly, battery-induction ranges have benefits none of the others do - you can cook and bake during a power outage. | Appliance Type | Cooktop in Outage | Oven in Outage | | ------------------ | ----------------- | -------------- | | Gas | Yes | No | | Standard Induction | No | No | | Battery Induction | Yes | Yes | ### Offsetting the cost - Rebates If those panel upgrade or battery range numbers are making you wince, check your local incentives. While the federal HEAR Program’s significant point-of-sale rebates were [discontinued on June 30, 2026 for fuel swapping](https://www.utilitydive.com/news/doe-issues-guidance-gas-electric-appliance-rebate/821720/?ref=ampmyhome.com), local utilities or municipalities may have rebates. See [The Switch is On](https://www.switchison.org/incentive-finder?ref=ampmyhome.com) to search in your area. ### Making the judgment call So, is it worth the $500 to $4,000 premium to make the switch from gas to induction? That's a judgment call only you can make, but here is how I weigh the factors: **Health**: If anyone in the house has asthma or respiratory issues, the new evidence pointing to gas-related health impacts carries a lot of weight. **Cooking Habits & Performance:** How often do you cook, and do you reliably use a vented hood? Do you already use cast iron or steel-clad cookware? Do you boil or simmer frequently? **Home Plans:** How long do you expect to stay in your home? Do you plan to do a kitchen remodel? Is your current stove near end-of-life? Either choice involves spending. **Other Electrification:** If you plan to install an EV charger, AC, heat pump, heat pump water heater, or other large electric appliances, the panel upgrade becomes a shared cost rather than a dedicated one. ## The Short Version After digging into the realities of both sides, here is my takeaway: induction outperforms gas in almost every measurable way, and the health evidence has strengthened significantly enough that it can't be ignored. The main objections you usually hear have very solvable answers: - **Controls**: Knobs are available — just filter for them when shopping. - **Limited pans:** Most pans will work, try them. If needed, you can acquire quality ferromagnetic pans for reasonable cost. - **Wok Cooking:** Flat-bottom steel woks work perfectly fine. - **Outages**: Your gas oven won’t work without power anyway, and battery-induction beats gas completely. The real decider is your **electrical situation**. If you already have a 240V outlet or you're remodeling, the benefits are practically free — go for induction. If you don't, weigh the upgrade cost or look into 120V battery models. Saying “no” based on the electrical work is a legitimate outcome. Whenever possible, borrow a loaner induction cooker to see if it meets your cooking needs before making the decision. Once you experience the speed and refined heat, you might find it hard to go back. #### Some footnotes: I still use a gas cooktop. (But we ditched gas oven for a separate electric one.) When we remodeled a few years back, we were told our [100-amp electric service](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/) couldn’t support the power requirements of an induction stove, and the battery-induction ones hadn’t been invented. So we installed an outdoor-venting hood, and ran 240v wiring anyway for future-proofing and someday we’ll make the switch. --- 1. Plenty of touch-only ranges cook extremely well. Samsung's Bespoke is knob-free and tops several 2026 roundups on performance. This isn't about which stove cooks better — it's about which one won't annoy you every day for the first six months while you're still deciding whether you made a mistake. ### Heat pump water heaters: Should you replace your gas heater? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/hot-water/heat-pump-water-heaters-should-you-replace-your-gas-heater/ Last updated: 2026-05-19T04:13:56.000Z Standing in front of my dad’s aging gas water heater, I was unsure how big of a home improvement project we were taking on. ![Old gas storage water heater](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/05/IMG_3456.jpeg) My dad’s old gas water heater I was planning to replace it with a heat pump water heater (HPWH). A heat pump water heater is an electric water heater that runs at 3–5x the efficiency of a standard electric or gas unit — making it the most cost-effective water heating option available for most homes. I’ve replaced gas water heaters like-for-like in the past in my home, and I know that’s a quick project that a plumber can do in a few hours – even though it’s no longer cheap. That kind of swap — same fuel, same location — is a half-day job. What I was doing was different: switching fuel sources in a 75-year-old house. That's likely a home improvement project. But gas tank storage water heaters are terribly inefficient. Almost half the energy they use goes up the chimney and is wasted. They may not last very long. There are health concerns from gas combustion by-products and they contribute to climate change. And with solar panels already on the roof, my dad would be saving money by eliminating the cost of the gas to run it. ![Diagram of gas storage water heater](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/05/Natural_gas_storage_water_heater.gif) Diagram of gas storage water heater ([Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storage%5Fwater%5Fheater?ref=ampmyhome.com)) ## How heat pump water heaters work Your gas water heater burns fuel to make heat, then dumps roughly 30–40% of it through a hole in the center of the tank and straight out the flue. That's not a bug — it's just how simple combustion works. You're paying for energy you never use. A heat pump water heater does something fundamentally different: it moves heat instead of making it. It pulls warmth from the surrounding air and transfers it into the tank — the same physics as your refrigerator, running in reverse. That's why efficiency ratings of 300–400% are possible. Put in 1 unit of electricity, get 3–4 units of heat. Compared to a gas storage tank, you're looking at roughly 5x better efficiency. ![Diagram of heat pump water heater](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/05/heat_pump_water_heat.gif) Diagram of heat pump water heater ([energy.gov](https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/heat-pump-water-heaters?ref=ampmyhome.com)) ### Key efficiency number: Uniform Energy Factor (UEF) - UEF The key number to look for is the [Uniform Energy Factor](https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/estimating-costs-and-efficiency-storage-demand-and-heat-pump-water-heaters?ref=ampmyhome.com) (UEF) — the higher, the better. Quality HPWHs land between 3.5 and 4.5, meaning they deliver 3.5 - 4.5 times as much heat energy as they use. ### HPWH Operating Modes: Heat pump only, hybrid, resistance Most units also give you three operating modes: heat pump only (most efficient, slower recovery), hybrid (heat pump with resistance backup for high-demand periods), and resistance only (fast, but expensive — essentially a standard electric heater). ### Size: Number of gallons and First-Hour Rating Will I run out of hot water with a heat pump water heater? The short answer is no, because resistance backup will kick in. But to achieve maximum efficiency many professionals recommend going up slightly in tank size from your existing gas heater, or using a heater with a [mixing valve](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostatic%5Fmixing%5Fvalve?ref=ampmyhome.com) that lets you safely run the heater at a higher temperature in heat-pump-only mode. To compare models, look for the **first-hour rating**, which is the number of gallons a water heater can deliver in an hour starting with a full tank of hot water. ## Why take this on - Is a heat pump water heater worth it? For us, the case for switching came down to a few things that could apply to you too. My dad's water heater was going on 8 years old — we knew a replacement was coming. Rather than wait for it to fail and make a rushed decision, we wanted to plan ahead and head off any issues. My own experience with gas water heaters hadn't inspired much confidence: the one at my house cost $1,500, lasted 6 years, and the manufacturer's warranty response was a $100 credit toward a replacement. Before that, a failed thermocouple meant days of cold showers while we waited on a warranty repair delivery. For a 70-year-old technology, the reliability record didn’t inspire much confidence. My dad has solar, so eliminating gas for water heating meant the hot water would be effectively free on sunny days. [Water heating accounts for roughly 18% of home energy use](https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/water-heating?ref=ampmyhome.com), so that's not a rounding error. Finally, electric water heaters of any kind have no flames, fumes, or carbon monoxide risk. That matters in an older home where the gas and venting infrastructure is aging along with everything else. And many cities and states are beginning to phase out gas appliance replacements — it's worth checking what's on the horizon in your area. ## The gotchas and challenges Here’s a checklist of things I’d read about to look into with a HPWH: ### Size: budget an extra foot of height HPWHs are taller than a standard water heater — budget an extra 12 inches of vertical clearance. (Check - not an issue for us.) ### Space for air exchange: small closets won’t work These units pull heat from the surrounding air, they need room to breathe — at least 700–1,000 cubic feet. A tight closet won't cut it. (Check - our utility room was large and had an open connection with the house’s crawlspace.) ### Electrical system capacity: you may need a new circuit You may need a dedicated 240V/30A circuit. If you're replacing gas, that circuit probably doesn’t exist yet — and your panel may not have room. A good alternative solution is to use a 120V HPWH. (This was a major issue for us; see the “What Happened” section below.) ### Noise: less of an issue now Newer models are quieter than you'd expect — closer to a dehumidifier than a shop vac. Mostly a non-issue. (Check.) ### It cools the room its in: a feature or a bug A useful bonus in a warm garage. Less ideal in a small utility room you're trying to heat. (Check - not an issue for us.) ### Other issues and surprises One thing worth knowing: some electricians may flag that you need a **service upgrade** — upgrading the main service to your house to add capacity. It sounds alarming and expensive. In most cases, it isn't necessary. Before you agree to anything, read our story of [when a service upgrade is actually required](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/) — it could save you a significant amount of money. ## Is it right for your home? A decision framework Most standard installs run $2,800–$5,500 before rebates — more in older homes that need a lot of electrical work. Factor that in as you work through this. Most households are good candidates. A few aren't. Here's the quick breakdown: ### You're probably a good fit if: - You have a basement, garage, or utility room with decent airspace (roughly the size of a large walk-in closet or bigger) - Your existing electrical panel has room for a 240V/30A circuit — or you're planning electrical work anyway - You're in a mild-to-warm climate, or your install space stays above 40°F year-round - You have solar, a time-of-use electric rate plan, or just want to cut your energy bill - Your gas or electric water heater is aging out and you're already facing a replacement - There are substantial rebates available in your area - in some cases this can completely offset any cost differences. To find rebates and incentives available in your area, the [Rewiring America rebate finder](https://www.rewiringamerica.org/app/ira-calculator?ref=ampmyhome.com) and [ENERGY STAR's rebate locator](https://www.energystar.gov/rebate-finder?ref=ampmyhome.com) are both good starting points. Stacking national credits, state programs, local programs and utility rebates can meaningfully close the gap on upfront cost, but might take digging to find. ### It might not be the right move if: - Your only viable install space is a small closet or conditioned living area — the unit needs air and will cool whatever room it's in. There are [some](https://www.hotwater.com/products/split-system-outdoor-heat-pump-voltex-x/hpaco-45-100/100397647.html?ref=ampmyhome.com) [solutions](https://eco2waterheater.com/split-system-heat-pump-water-heater/?ref=ampmyhome.com) to this with split units that put the compressor outside - but they tend to be expensive. - You're in a very cold climate and your install space isn't insulated or heated - they still work, just not very efficiently. - Your electrical panel is maxed out and you're not ready to take on a bigger project - but before giving up, look into 120V HPWH models that might be able to plug into an existing outlet. The bottom line: if you have the space and the electrical capacity, there's almost no scenario where a heat pump water heater isn't the smarter long-term choice over gas storage or standard electric. The upfront cost is higher — but between rebates, lower running costs, and state and utility programs, the payback period vs electric water heater can be 3–5 years. For a switch from gas it depends greatly on the cost ratio between electricity and gas in your local area - and if you have solar. ## Quick comparison - HPWH vs your other options | | Heat pump water heater (HPWH) | Gas storage | Gas tankless (on-demand) | Standard electric | | ------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------- | ---------------------------------------------------------------------- | ------------------------------------------------ | | Unit + install cost | $2,800–$8,000After rebates: $1,000–$5,000 | $1,200–$3,500 | $2,700–$5,500Gas lines + venting add cost | $600–$3,100Lowest upfront | | Annual running cost | \~$150–$200/yr2–3× more efficient than resistance | \~$200–$500/yrVaries by gas rates | \~$200–$300/yr | \~$450–$600/yrMost expensive to run | | Space needed | Most demanding700–1,000 cu ft airspace; split units can solve this | Small footprint; closet or utility room fine | Wall-mounted, compact; needs venting | Same as gas storage; closet or utility room fine | | Electrical needs | 240V / 30A dedicated circuit; may need panel work if replacing gas; some work on 120V | None (gas-only) | 120V circuit | 240V / 30A dedicated circuit | | Gas needs | None | Gas line | High-capacity gas line | None | | Cold climates? | PartialNeeds ambient air above 37–40°F to run efficiently | Yes | Yes | Yes | | Best for | Top pickGarage/basement install; solar owners; replacing aging gas or electric | Replacing an existing gas unit with no space, electrical capacity | High hot water demand; limited space; existing high-capacity gas lines | Lowest upfront cost; short-term situations | ## What happened - what worked well, what we’d do differently Old houses have a way of turning a simple swap into a home improvement project. Ours was no different - for the full story, [read the case study](https://www.ampmyhome.com/case-studies/installing-heat-pump-water-heater-in-place-of-gas-my-dads-place/). The water heater itself wasn't the hard part — the 75-year-old electrical infrastructure behind it was. Old, outdated panels, questionable existing wiring. If you're in an older home, assume you'll find something similar. It's not a reason to avoid the project — it's just a reason to plan for it. One thing that helped: talk to contractors with actual HPWH and electrification experience, not just general plumbers. (A good resource is [https://homes.rewiringamerica.org/find-contractors](https://homes.rewiringamerica.org/find-contractors?ref=ampmyhome.com)). We got multiple estimates and heard very different answers about what was "required." Some of that was legitimate variation; some of it was upselling. Do your homework before you sign anything. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/05/IMG_3457.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/05/IMG_4406-1.jpeg) Old electric panels (left) replaced by new electric panel (right) ### What worked well - No more gas water heating — and in months with strong solar production, the hot water is effectively free. The bigger win was timing and rebates: we knew the electrical system needed upgrading regardless, so we didn't wait for the old water heater to fail and force a rushed decision. Planning ahead meant we could bundle the work, compare contractors properly, and take full advantage of rebates and incentives. Between the HPWH and electrical work we were able to ***stack $5,400 in rebates and a $2,000 tax credit.*** ### What were the gotchas - As we flagged in the checklist above, the scope of the electrical work was larger than we initially anticipated. Once we opened things up, it became clear there were more old infrastructure issues to address than the water heater project alone required. We don't regret doing it, but it required making some expensive decisions about the electrical work. Go in with the expectation that an older home will have surprises, and you won't be caught off guard. ### What you should assume going in - If you're replacing gas water heater in an older home, treat this as a home improvement project, not a repair call. Budget accordingly, start the contractor conversations early, and don't let a failed water heater make the decision for you under pressure. ### Transferrable insight from my dad’s project - A few things worth carrying into your own decision: - If you heat water with gas, this swap will likely involve some level of home improvement work. The earlier you plan, the more control you have over cost and timing — and the better positioned you'll be to capture rebates, promos, and incentives before they change. - If you already have an electric water heater, this is the easiest win on the list. Minimal upgrade work, immediate savings, short payback period. - Worth exploring: 120V heat pump water heaters are now available and can sometimes be installed without any electrical upgrades at all — worth asking your contractor about this if panel capacity is a concern. - Think holistically. If you're opening up the electrical system anyway, ask what else makes sense to do at the same time — whether that's replacing aging systems, adding circuits for an EV charger, a mini split, or future-proofing for other electrification or home improvement projects down the road. ### Is Solar Worth It Anymore? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/solar/is-solar-worth-it-anymore/ Last updated: 2026-02-25T18:34:09.000Z ## Is Solar Worth It in 2026 There have been big changes (reductions) recently in how solar can help you save money - is solar worth it still? First, here’s the biggest changes: - **Elimination of the Investment Tax Credit (ITC) for residential solar** \- prior to 2026, homeowners purchasing solar could receive up to a 30% tax credit for installed solar systems. This was big, as buying a $20,000 solar system would get you a $6,000 credit off your income tax bill. No longer. - **Reduction in credits for excess electricity** \- Power companies give you credit for electricity that you “send back to the grid” - called net metering, net billing or feed-in tariffs. In the early days of solar, utilities would pay you the same amount for electricity you sent back as they charged for the electricity you used. Not so much anymore. California reduced net metering credits in 2022, and at least nine more states have taken similar actions to reduce net metering credits in 2025. Given these financial headwinds, is solar still worth it in 2026? The short answer: A qualified “yes” - 1/3 of US homes would save money today by adding solar - but it depends on your specific case. ### The big picture: Solar is a "hedge" against high utility prices and rate hikes Electric rates have risen 50% on average in the last 5-6 years, but not everywhere has felt the same impact. Depending on where you live, electric rates may have gone up a lot, in other areas not so much, as shown in the chart below. ![Electricity price increases by state, 2019-2024](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/02/growth-in-residential-electricity-prices-2019-2024-2.png) A home solar system that you purchase “locks in” your electric rates for up to 25 years, potentially reducing your effective rates now and protecting from future increases. Using data from [energy.gov](https://www.energy.gov/eere/solar/solar-photovoltaic-system-cost-benchmarks?ref=ampmyhome.com), a solar and battery system in 2024 had an effective electric cost of $0.26 per kWh ($0.14/kWh for a solar-only system) for the life of the system. In California and Massachusetts, this is lower than current rates. In Connecticut and Alaska, this is about the same as current rates - but these will rise over time. In Idaho and North Dakota, this is higher than current rates, even for a solar-only system, so solar may make less sense. ### Defining “worth it": Are cost savings the only benefit? Definitely not. [Power outages](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/power-outages-sf-waymo-generators-and-batteries/) are increasing substantially, and a solar plus battery system can provide power when the electric grid fails. Are there other benefits to solar? Yes: - **Homes with installed solar sell for more** \- 4.1% - 6.9% more - A [couple](https://www.solarreviews.com/blog/solar-home-value-report?ref=ampmyhome.com) [sources](https://emp.lbl.gov/news/59401/berkeley-lab-illuminates-price-?ref=ampmyhome.com) that support this. - **Solar means less pollution** \- using electricity generated from the sun means less pollution and carbon from other “dirty” sources. ## How solar panels work - The basics Residential solar systems convert sunlight into electricity using rooftop [photovoltaic (PV) panels](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar%5Fpanel?ref=ampmyhome.com). When sunlight hits the panels, they generate direct current (DC) electricity. An [inverter](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar%5Finverter?ref=ampmyhome.com) converts this DC power into alternating current (AC), which homes use to run appliances and lighting. The system first supplies power to the home; any excess electricity can charge a battery or flow to the utility grid. When solar production is low, the home automatically draws electricity from the grid or stored battery energy. Monitoring software tracks production, consumption, and system performance in real time. To provide backup during outages, a transfer or backup switch disconnects the home from the electric grid in order to safely feed the house from the solar + battery system. Understanding the basics of how a solar system works helps households save money by: choosing the right system configuration and size for solar panels, inverters, and battery storage. Knowing when solar panels produce the most power, when electricity rates are lowest (to use power from the grid) and export rates are highest (to send power to the grid) and what incentive programs are available can result in higher savings and shorter payback periods. ## The financial case: Breaking down the ROI ### **The cost of inaction** The average US household is expected to spend **$67,000 over the next 25 years on electricity** (assuming current inflation rates around 2.7%). Buying an EV would increase this (but would save money on gas). ### **Solar system cost** An average solar system, expected to last 25 years, costs $15k–$35k without incentives, depending on size and location. And on average, solar systems are sized to offset about 75% of electric costs, saving $50,000 on average in electric bills over 25 years. > Average US home monthly electric use = 900kWh/mo ([eia](https://www.eia.gov/tools/faqs/faq.php?id=97&t=3how&ref=ampmyhome.com)) > Average solar system size = 9.3kW - 4-11kWh ([LBL](https://eta-publications.lbl.gov/sites/default/files/2025-10/distributed%5Fsolar%5Fstorage-2025%5Fdata%5Fupdate.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com)) > Average solar system cost = $3.5/W (cash) - $15k-$35k ([LBL](https://eta-publications.lbl.gov/sites/default/files/2025-10/distributed%5Fsolar%5Fstorage-2025%5Fdata%5Fupdate.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com)) **Over 25 years, *on average*, solar is worth it financially in savings alone.** #### Many people look at the Payback Period: Payback period is the time it takes to “earn back” enough electricity bill savings to equal the money spent on a solar system. On average, payback periods for a solar and battery system are about 10 years. ### Home resale value As mentioned above, purchasing a residential solar system can increase the resale value of your home - The "solar premium" — by 4-7%. For the [median US home worth $410k](https://fred.stlouisfed.org/series/MSPUS?ref=ampmyhome.com), that would amount to about $16k to $28k in increased value - earning back about 80% of the cost of the system. **So *on average* over 25 years, going solar:** - **Saves at least $15,000** on electric bills *after* paying back the cost of the system. - **Increases a home’s value by over $16,000**. But, whether a solar system is worth it *for you* depends on many factors - which we’ll look at next. ## How much do solar panels cost? A home solar system is made up of more than solar (PV) panels - and while solar panels used to be the majority of the cost of a system, the panels themselves now represent only \~12% of the system cost - and even less for solar systems with battery storage. ![Cost components chart of a residential solar + storage system ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/02/cost-components-of-a-residential-solar-system.png) See [more details on solar costs](https://www.ampmyhome.com/solar/lazard-solar-and-your-energy-costs/) and [battery system cost elements. ](https://www.ampmyhome.com/batteries/why-are-home-battery-systems-so-expensive/) Solar panel and solar system costs are usually represented as cost per watt ($/W) to normalize for different sizes, where total rated solar system output capacity of all the solar panels together (in DC watts) is used in the denominator. Examples: - A 400-watt rated solar panel that costs $200 would be expressed as $0.50/W. - A 10kW (10,000 watts) solar system that costs $30,000 would be expressed as $3.00/W. ### What affects solar panel system cost? The three biggest factors going into solar system cost are **size**, **$/watt**, and whether the system includes **storage**. We’ll look at each of these below. #### What affects solar panel system size? - **Electricity usage** \- How much electricity your residence uses is a big factor in determining system size - the more you use, the bigger the system is needed to offset your usage. Many utility bills will show your usage (in kWh) for the past year, broken down by month. - **Location and sunlight; roof size, pitch and shading** \- Where your house is located geographically, any shading of the roof, and the size, shape and orientation of the roof are all factors that will affect how much electricity is produced. Fortunately, there are online tools such as [Google Project Sunroof](https://sunroof.withgoogle.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) that can answer this question for most rooftops in the US. #### What affects $/watt price? - **Location - City, state, electric utility** \- Unfortunately, there are huge variations in cost-per-watt pricing depending on where you live. This chart from Lawrence Berkeley Labs shows the range of pricing for 100,000 solar-only installations in 2024 - ![Chart of average residential solar installation costs by state. ](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/02/residential-solar-installed-price-per-watt-by-state-2024.png) Solar prices vary from $2.90/W to $4.70/W depending on state. Source: [LBL.gov](https://emp.lbl.gov/sites/default/files/2025-10/Distributed%20Solar%20%26%20Storage-2025%20Data%20Update.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) - **Equipment and installer choice** \- Your choice of equipment and installer also plays a role in cost. For example, DC-optimizer-based systems tend to cost about 10% more than median (2023 data, LBL.gov). Different installers charge more or less depending on their business models, vendor relationships, and competition. And individual configurations for a house can all be factors in prices. ![Chart of residential solar installation costs for top 100 installers in US.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/02/residential-solar-installed-price-per-watt-by-installer-top100.png) Solar prices vary substantially from installer to installer. Source: [LBL.gov](https://emp.lbl.gov/sites/default/files/2025-10/Distributed%20Solar%20%26%20Storage-2025%20Data%20Update.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) #### Why is home battery storage so expensive? Adding a home battery to a solar system increases the cost by $10-20k, or more. Home batteries require more complex installations, even though the battery cell costs themselves have dropped 90% in the last 10 years. Labor costs are a big part of it; this article breaks down the [battery storage system costs](https://www.ampmyhome.com/batteries/why-are-home-battery-systems-so-expensive/) in more detail. ### Solar incentives, tax credits, and rebates #### Federal solar tax credit Until 2026, solar and storage systems were eligible for a 30% tax credit when purchased and installed on your primary home. No longer. But, tax incentives are still available for commercial customers, who can then in turn [lease battery-based storage systems to you](https://www.npr.org/2026/02/20/nx-s1-5649474/solar-panel-tax-credit?ref=ampmyhome.com). While these leases may include a 30% tax credit, you won’t own the system, and they may include other fees - you should look at the bottom line. #### State, local and utility incentives Some states, local municipalities and utilities offer substantial incentives - such as [Duke Energy in North Carolina offering $9,000 rebates](https://www.duke-energy.com/home/products/powerpair?ref=ampmyhome.com). Such attractive incentives can dramatically improve the ROI on solar + storage systems. #### How incentives change the true cost of solar Upfront incentives today are some of the strongest drivers of solar + storage adoption, as outlined in [this study by inverter startup Stormentum](https://stormentum.com/resources/outages-incentives-rise-of-home-energy-ecosystem/?ref=ampmyhome.com). A site like [https://www.dsireusa.org](https://www.dsireusa.org/?ref=ampmyhome.com) can help you find policies and incentives in your region. ## How much money can solar save ***you***? Switching to solar is a strategic financial move that pays both immediate and long-term dividends. On average, homeowners see their monthly electric bill drop by 70% to 90%, depending on system size and energy usage. Determining how much you can save starts with looking at how much electricity you use, and how much it costs. This information is available from your utility, either on your bills or via download using the “[green button](https://www.energy.gov/data/green-button?ref=ampmyhome.com)” on your utility account. Add up the total $ spent for a year, and the total energy used (in kWh) for a year. This forms the baseline of electricity usage to offset with solar - you can calculate **average cost per kWh** (total spent divided by total kWh), **average monthly usage** and **average cost per month** (divide annual totals by twelve). Online tools such as Google’s [Project Sunroof](https://sunroof.withgoogle.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) can estimate specific high-level cost savings, or you can use their more advanced [Sunroof API demonstration app](https://solar-potential-296769475687.us-central1.run.app/?ref=ampmyhome.com) to see more details including amount of sunlight and best panel locations for any specific home, estimate system sizing and adjust assumptions. The site [https://pvwatts.nlr.gov](https://pvwatts.nlr.gov/?ref=ampmyhome.com) can give you monthly electricity generation estimates for your location and system size. To get more accurate sizing and savings estimates for your home, it’s best to get quotes from reputable solar installers, who will use your Green Button data, software and potentially on-site visits and inspections to determine optimal system size and more accurately estimate savings. (I wish there were better online tools for this). ## Is a home solar battery needed? Many people are surprised to learn early on that a solar system on the roof won’t work during a power outage. The reason for this is both to protect people working on the grid during an outage, and because more complex equipment is needed to run a house while “off grid”. ### Enables electricity outage backup A solar system with a battery backup system can provide power during an outage, by disconnecting the house from the grid and operating from solar (during the day) and the battery (at night). The solar panels can also recharge the battery during sunny periods. With increasing power outages, this is becoming a stronger driver of battery adoption. ### Can save money on electricity There are two ways adding a battery can help save more money. First, with increasingly common time-of-use electricity rates, the battery can supply power to your home when rates are high, helping avoid larger electric bills. Second, as more utilities move away from Net Energy Metering for solar, the credits given for sending power to the grid drop substantially. A battery lets you store low-cost solar energy to use later for your home, letting your home draw less power from the grid overall. ### Who actually needs home batteries? - Homes in areas with lots of power outages (hurricanes, storms, fire-safety outages) - Areas with high time-of-use electric rates (like California) - Areas that have moved away from Net Energy Metering (at least 9 states did this in 2025) - People looking to avoid the cost, pollution, ongoing maintenance, [potential safety issues](https://www.consumerreports.org/home-garden/generators/generator-safety-tips-to-get-you-through-a-storm-a1088725298/?ref=ampmyhome.com) and fueling challenges with backup generators. ## When is solar worth it? In general, solar is worth it for homeowners who: • Face high electricity rates, or large [time-of-use (TOU)](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/can-time-of-use-electricity-rates-save-you-money/) rates • Plan to own their home for the longer term • Have good roof condition and sun exposure In addition to Project Sunroof, NREL has a [Solar Irradiance map](https://www.nlr.gov/docs/libraries/gis/high-res-images/solar-annual-ghi-2018-usa-scale-01.jpg?ref=ampmyhome.com) for the US. • Have strong [net metering policies](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Net%5Fmetering?ref=ampmyhome.com) ## When solar is not worth it In general, solar is not worth it for residents who: • Have very low electricity rates • Rent their home, or are planning for short-term home ownership • Have shaded roofs or roofs with structural issues ## Common questions about solar - FAQ #### Is solar worth it in cloudy or cold states? Yes. Even cold, cloudy states - like upstate New York - still receive a lot of sunlight. A solar system in one of the least-sunny places in the US, Syracuse NY, can [produce 6.1 MWh of electricity in a year from a 5kW system](https://globalsolaratlas.info/map?s=43.048122,-76.147424&m=site&c=43.048122,-76.147424,11&pv=small,180,33,5&ref=ampmyhome.com). And, solar panels are even slightly more efficient in cold weather. #### Do solar panels require a lot of maintenance? No. Solar panels are generally maintenance-free; occasional cleaning can minimize slight reductions due to dirt build-up. #### **Can I put solar panels on my roof?** Solar panels are very easily installed on the most common roof types, asphalt shingles. Other roof types, such as tile, metal, foam or flat-roofs require different materials and may require specialist installers - be sure to ask installers for qualifications if you have one of these other roof types. #### Will solar panels damage my roof? When installed correctly by a reputable installer, solar panels will not damage roofs. Picking a reputable installer is key. #### Should I replace my roof before installing solar panels? If you have an old roof, you should definitely replace it before installing solar panels. In general, you want 10 years or more of life remaining with your roof when installing solar panels, as the panels must be removed and re-installed when replacing a roof. #### What happens if I sell my house? If you own your solar system outright, your solar system sells with the house, and likely increases the price you get for the home. If you have a loan for your solar system, you will likely have to pay off the loan as part of the sale of your house. For leases and other solar subscription services such as Power Purchase Agreements (PPA’s) it depends on the specific contract terms - be sure to ask for details before signing on to such an agreement. ## Final answer: So, is solar worth it? Solar is worth it today for about 1/3 of all US households, who would save an average of 15% on electricity and gain outage backup with batteries, even in 2026 after the big reductions in credits (Source: [Stanford study, August 2025](https://energy.stanford.edu/news/most-us-households-can-save-money-and-weather-blackouts-solar-plus-storage?ref=ampmyhome.com)). With incentives, lower equipment costs, increasing electricity rates, and more outages, this number of households will increase - expected to reach 2/3 of US households by 2033\. If you have high electricity rates, lots of outages and own your home - you are likely a good candidate for solar! ### Power Outages: SF, Waymo, generators and batteries URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/power-outages-sf-waymo-generators-and-batteries/ Last updated: 2026-01-11T20:15:44.000Z Power outages are an increasing reality for us, as electrical grids face unprecedented strain from extreme weather and aging infrastructure. This vulnerability was starkly illustrated locally on December 20, 2025, when a substation fire plunged nearly one-third of San Francisco into darkness, disrupting holiday transportation and retail for over 130,000 residents and businesses. (And by another outage in [Burlingame](https://www.kron4.com/news/bay-area/burlingame-businesses-suffer-as-pge-works-to-fix-hazardous-leak-caused-power-outage/?ref=ampmyhome.com) last week.) Although this outage didn’t affect my own home, I was in SF when this happened - and got stuck at a blacked-out intersection in a Waymo! ## Increasing power outages [JD Power](https://www.jdpower.com/business/resources/disasters-become-fact-life-many-us-electric-utility-customers?ref=ampmyhome.com) highlights the increasing nationwide trend in outages - nearly one-half of americans experienced a power outage in the first half of 2025, with the average length of the longest outage lasting over 12 hours! ## My experience in the SF power outage The December 20 outage in San Francisco backs this data up - in this outage, 1/3 of the city was blacked out for almost 8 hours, with the last group of 3,800 customers out for a straight [63 hours](https://sfstandard.com/2025/12/23/sf-pge-power-outage-restored/?ref=ampmyhome.com). That day, the show we were supposed to be seeing was canceled due to the outage, so three of us took a Waymo from the Laurel Heights neighborhood, which had power where we were, to Japantown - which also had power. However, the route we took did not - it was eery driving along entirely dark streets in a driverless car, but the Waymo had no problem navigating at first. Once we hit the first blacked-out traffic light intersection, problems started to show up. The Waymo was confused for a bit, hesitating fitfully - but we made it through. However, when we got to the busy intersection at Divisadero with four lanes of cross-traffic, the [Waymo froze](https://sfstandard.com/2025/12/23/wtf-happened-waymo-blackout-industry-experts-have-guesses/?ref=ampmyhome.com). Stuck in the middle of the road, we contacted rider support from the car - the video below shows what happened next, starting about two minutes after we connected with the support rep. We walked the remaining five blocks to Japantown. On the left side of the street the lights were on, on the right side they were out. Fortunately, the Japan Center had power. Leaving Japantown later, we switched to Uber! ## What caused this outage? It was ironic that the exact same outage, affecting 130,000 customers on December 20, happened 22 years earlier to the day. And another one happened in 1996\. NBC reported on this [history of trouble at the Mission Street PG&E substation](https://www.nbcbayarea.com/investigations/pge-mission-substation-fire-trouble-regulators/4001335/?ref=ampmyhome.com), which provides power to about 1/3 of the city. ### Old infrastructure The PG&E Mission substation was built more than 75 years ago, [detailed at the time in a technical document](https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/6434153?ref=ampmyhome.com) by PG&E. After the fire in 2003, the [CA PUC’s report](https://docs.cpuc.ca.gov/publishedDocs/published/Report/40886.PDF?ref=ampmyhome.com) cited a couple key causes: > The root cause of the incident was a cable failure in a switch cabinet. The cable failed explosively, which caused a bus located above it to catch on fire. Over time, vertically installed cable with oil impregnated paper insulation loses its insulating capability because the insulation dries out, resulting in a short circuit....The 1996 Mission Substation fire revealed that the insulation used in the auxiliary buses is flammable and does not self extinguish, but no steps were taken to mitigate this vulnerability. Another detail highlights how they had to shut down the entire substation (twice) for firefighters to find and fight the fire: > At 5:57 p.m., all transmission breakers at Mission Substation were opened by the San Mateo Control Center (SMCC), effectively de-energizing the substation and terminating power to almost 100,000 PG&E customers, a loss of 150 MW or 22 percent of the load in San Francisco. Given this detail, it’s pretty clear that PG&E had to again [shut down the entire substation for 6-8 hours](https://sfstandard.com/2025/12/22/san-francisco-blackout-what-we-know-pge/?ref=ampmyhome.com) to [fight the fire](https://www.nbcbayarea.com/news/local/timeline-pge-fire-outage-san-francisco/4002994/?ref=ampmyhome.com) on the most recent outage, and that’s why so much of the city’s power went out. ### Generators on 24th Ave We don’t yet know the official cause of the most recent fire/outage, but there is a clue: PG&E had to install [six massive generator containers](https://www.reddit.com/r/sanfrancisco/comments/1ptfwmc/generators%5Fon%5F24th%5Fave/?ref=ampmyhome.com) on the street on 24th Ave, outside a smaller substation. (Even PG&E has to use emergency generators.) ![Picture of PG&E Emergency generators after SF outage on December 20 2025](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/01/e92275379179b755a0aad56af6fc6fae.webp) PG&E Emergency Generators at 24th Avenue after Dec 20 outage (SFGate) This most likely means some of the circuits or equipment at the Mission substation supplying the 24th Ave substation were destroyed by the fire. Another clue as to the source is that it appears the outage first started with 40,000 customers in that area - Sunset and Richmond districts, Golden Gate Park, and the Presidio. ## What to do about it While some people are calling for the takeover of the electric infrastructure by the city, what can you do about power outages in the short term? With the [increase in weather-related disasters](https://www.climatecentral.org/climate-services/billion-dollar-disasters?ref=ampmyhome.com) (and the threat of earthquakes in California) updated infrastructure alone may not solve this problem. There are quite a few options available - I wrote an article for Stormentum, a company that’s looking to reduce the cost of whole-home battery-backed solar systems, [outlining backup electricity options](https://stormentum.com/resources/residential-backup-power-in-an-age-of-outages/?ref=ampmyhome.com). They range from a portable power station, all the way up through whole-home generators or home battery systems. ### Batteries are taking over It used to be that a portable generator was the most common homeowner solution to power outages. But Google Trends data highlights how more and more people are looking to battery-run portable power stations to solve this problem... driven by the [relentlessly dropping cost of batteries](https://www.ampmyhome.com/batteries/why-are-home-battery-systems-so-expensive/), and the convenience and low-maintenance of battery backup. Plus, they work inside, making them a good option for apartments. Of course, batteries run down and generators fail or run out of fuel - but with batteries, low-cost (ie, [\~$150 for a 400-watt panel](https://ussolarsupplier.com/products/runergy-hyperion-hy-dh108p8b-400-400-watt-mono-perc-bifacial-dual-glass-all-black?ref=ampmyhome.com)) solar panels can be setup and plugged in to a portable power station to recharge them from the sun for resiliance through longer power outages. Companies are even starting to package batteries and “balcony solar” together in a package: - In Germany, Ikea sells a do-it-yourself balcony-solar-and-storage kit through a partnership [![Balcony Solar and storage at Ikea Germany](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/01/Screenshot-2026-01-11-at-11.46.54---AM.png)](https://www.ikea.com/de/de/energy-services/plug-in-solar/?ref=ampmyhome.com) Balcony solar + battery sold at Ikea in Germany (translated) - Startup Raya Power is pre-selling a packaged solar setup with battery [![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/01/Screenshot-2026-01-11-at-11.43.43---AM-1-1.png)](https://rayapower.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) Raya Home Solar+Battery Package - Many of the traditional portable power station manufacturers sell bundles with a range of prices and capacities ![Portable power stations with solar panels](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2026/01/Screenshot-2026-01-09-at-11.26.12---AM.png) Examples of portable power station + solar bundles With power outages increasing and technology failing in uncertain ways (Waymo), having your own plans and backups for when technology and infrastructure fails is the most important thing! ### Installing Heat Pump Water Heater in place of Gas: My dad’s place URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/case-studies/installing-heat-pump-water-heater-in-place-of-gas-my-dads-place/ Last updated: 2025-09-22T16:38:37.000Z My dad installed solar a couple years ago and radically cut his electric bill, but he was ending up with a net surplus at the end of the year (CA’s NEM2), so we figured it was a good time to make use of the “free” energy - by replacing his gas water heater with a heat pump water heater (HPWH). But, that’s not so easy in a house built 75 years ago! Here’s time-lapse video of the process, that makes it look easy :) [YouTube![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/icon/favicon-3.ico)](https://youtube.com/embed/U%5F4U4joPMuM?ref=ampmyhome.com) ## Why Choose a Heat Pump Water Heater? Why did we want to switch to a heat pump water heater? Two primary reasons: **Efficiency** \- If you currently have a traditional gas storage water heater, like my dad, it’s about 60% efficient - that is, about 60% of the energy in the natural gas is converted to hot water. The rest of the energy is wasted up the chimney. Heat pump water heaters can be 300% efficient (and more - his was rated at [UEF](https://www.energystar.gov/products/ask-the-experts/what-uniform-energy-factor-and-why-does-it-matter?ref=ampmyhome.com) of 4.07, or 407%), which means they use 1/5 (**80% less**) energy to heat the water! **Cost savings** \- If you have enough solar, then the energy needed to heat the water with a HPWH is free (as was the case for my dad). If not, you can still save money - spend less $$ on gas and a little bit more on electricity, but you can still come out ahead. **Non-Solar cost savings example:** - In California, natural gas in 2023 averaged \~$2.15/therm and electricity \~$0.30/kWh. - [Converting Therms to kWh](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/energy-units-of-measure-in-the-home/) for gas means gas energy cost is $2.15 / 29.3 = $0.07/kWh. This is cheaper energy than electricity - BUT: - Taking efficiency into account, it takes 5X as much gas as electricity to heat the same amount of water, meaning the equivalent cost/kWh for the gas water heater is $0.07 x 5 = $0.35 ... so **the HPWH reduces your combined gas+electric bill for hot water by -14%,** from an effective $0.35 -> $0.30 per kWh of energy. **And yes... it reduces pollution and greenhouse gas emissions.** ## Preparing for the Water Heater Replacement There were two big factors we had to work through in doing this water heater replacement: first, finding the right contractor; and then, discovering all the rebates and credits we could qualify for - it turned out there were a lot! ### Finding the right contractor - This can be tricky, as traditional plumbers might not be familiar with HPWHs, and might recommend just sticking with gas. Why do they do this? Because most water heaters are replaced in an emergency - ie, you’re stranded with a cold shower or flooded garage - there’s very little pre-planning that can be done at that point and it’s fastest to just replace what’s there with exactly the same thing, so many contractors are most familiar with just that. But, we wanted to pre-replace his water heater before it gave out so we wouldn’t be stuck in an emergency. (It was about 8 years old, from my experience it could give out as early as tomorrow – my last gas water heater only lasted 7 years – or as late as 4-5 years from now). There were two ways I found most helpful in finding knowledgeable contractors: - **Use a service** \- There are starting to be services that specialize in finding electrification contractors. I used a new service called [QuitCarbon](https://www.quitcarbon.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com), which will evaluate your individual situation and recommend contractors for you. Between my own house remodel over the past couple years and my dad’s current need, I talked with 4 contractors who specialized in HPWH’s over the course of a year and a half. These contractors were not traditional plumbers, but were people who were invested in newer, high-efficiency alternatives to traditional water heaters. I found these contractors to be generally quite knowledgeable. - **Word of mouth** \- It turned out that the “parents network” was pretty valuable - I met co-founder of the company [emeraldECO](https://emeraldeco.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) through a friend of my daughter’s while she was in high school, and had talked with him at swim meets and over beers. I also used him as a consultant on my own home remodel project. Talking with others - neighbors, local acquaintances – about who they have used, and if they were satisfied with them, is also a good source of reliable potential contractors. ### Discovering the rebates/credits - My dad qualified for $5,400 in rebates, and plans to take advantage of $2,600 in energy efficient home improvement [tax credits](https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/p5967.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) that expire at the end of 2025, so our motivation was to do this upgrade while all this help was still available. That’s a lot of money! But, finding all that’s available was haphazard. Both QuitCarbon, emeraldECO and many of the contractors told us about some of the rebates. The rebates we used were the following: - **Golden State Rebates** \- $900 for HPWH. emeraldECO (and QuitCarbon) were on top of this one, which was a bill credit the contractor directly applied as a discount to their bill. - [**Silicon Valley Clean Energy**](https://ehub.svcleanenergy.org/incentives?ref=ampmyhome.com) \- We qualified for $3,500 in rebates from our electricity [CCA](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community%5FChoice%5FAggregation?ref=ampmyhome.com) (they are separate from utility PG&E), which included HPWH install replacing gas, prewiring, and replacing 2 electrical panels. The prewiring and electrical panel rebates needed to be done at the same time as the HPWH install. They were very helpful over the phone in clarifying what we qualified for - if you live in Santa Clara County give them a call at 1-833-243-4235\. If you live elsewhere, be sure to check with your electric utility for available rebates. - **The town** \- My dad’s town had a $1,000 HPWH rebate that I randomly discovered on their website - so do check with the town you live in. I had to walk in to town hall to get qualified and added to the list, but for $1,000 it was worth it. If you’re wondering what it actually costs to do a HPWH upgrade, SVCE provides a list of contractors and the actual costs of specific projects that each have completed in the area [here](https://svcleanenergy.org/wp-content/uploads/Find-a-Contractor-HPWH-List%5F3.7.2023%5Fdigital.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com). The least expensive was about $3,000 not including rebates (some were self-installed for less). ## Installation Process The installation was handled over two days, once the permit was applied for and approved by the city (which took about 3 weeks): **Day 1 - Electrical work.** The electrical work was quite involved and required replacing the electrical panel shown in the above video, as well as another panel and running some additional wiring. This work took the whole day and involved shutting off the power to the whole house for a few hours. **Day 2 - Water heater replacement.** The work to replace the water heater was quicker - it took about 4 hours total and involved shutting off the house’s hot water for a couple hours. The last part of the process was final inspection by the city, which happened the following week, with the contractor meeting the inspector at the house within a 4-hour window. ## Post-Installation Considerations After the install, everything worked fine and my dad enjoyed his hot water and shower (we replaced his shower head, too). However, we ran into two issues, both of which were resolved consulting with the contractor: - An un-insulated existing hot water pipe. There was an existing hot water pipe to one section of the house that didn’t get insulated as part of the install. This was fixed by the installer the following week while he was waiting for the city inspector to show up. Uninsulated hot water pipes can waste a lot of energy. - Excessive energy consumption. As part of the HPWH replacement, we had installed a [hot water recirculating pump](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQC%5Fshrv8KA&ref=ampmyhome.com) that has “learning” built-in, meaning it uses sensors to learn when hot water is being used and turns on in anticipation to eliminate you having to run cold water out of the faucet or shower until it gets hot. The “learning” then shuts off the pump when it’s not needed, saving energy. This “learning” took a few weeks - and until that happened, there was a lot of energy being wasted keeping hot water in all the pipes 24x7\. Once the initial time period passed, energy use dropped almost in half (see graph). ![Graph of HPWH energy consumption over time.](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/09/IMG_4494-1-1.png) HPWH energy consumption dropped in half after recirculation “learning” kicked in. ## Checklist of Considerations In considering what factors to look at when upgrading your water heater, I retrospectively created the following checklist, with the help of LLM’s, and added how we had addressed each item, so that you can benefit from what we learned on this project: | Items to consider | What we did | | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- | | Assess the current electrical panel for capacity. | There was no space. And the electric panel was ancient, from 1950.So we needed to replace it for this project and to support future remodel needs. | | Confirm the availabilityof a dedicated 240V circuit. | No, see above. | | Determine if electricalupgrades are necessary. | Yes, see above. | | Ensure adequate spacefor proper airflow (typicallylarger than for gas units). | Check. Room is big enough. | | Check for proper ventilationif installed indoors. | Check. | | Verify the noise levelis acceptable for thechosen location. | We were told that the newer heat pumps are relatively quiet, unlike early models.This proved to be true. | | Verify the heat pumpwater heater meets householdhot water demands. | We upsized from 50 gal to 80 gal to make sure. | | Check the unit’s energyefficiency ratings(Energy Factor/UEF). | Checked on [energystar.gov](https://energystar.gov/?ref=ampmyhome.com), UEF was 4.07. | | Consider models withbuilt-in smart controlsfor better efficiency. | Check. This also means I can provide remote “tech support” for my dad if needed! | | Plan for any necessarymodifications to water connections. | We added water recirculation, but this was not necessary for the replacement. | | Ensure proper drainagefor condensate management. | Check. | | Factor in the costof the unit and installation. | This was an expensive project, because we replaced the paneland a bunch of other old electrical upgrade work. | | Include potential electricalupgrade expenses. | See above. | | Explore available rebatesor incentives forenergy-efficient appliances. | Yes! We qualified for $5,300 in rebates and will use $2,600 tax credit. | | Obtain necessary permitsfor the installation. | Contractor handled this. | | Verify contractor licensingand qualifications. | Check. | | Compare estimated energysavings to installation costs. | Gas WH cost was about $50/mo; electric cost will be zero from previously installed solar system. | | Calculate the return oninvestment over the unit’slifespan. | Because we bundled in a bunch of electrical system upgrades, the savings in gas (\~$6,000 over 10 years) will not payback the whole thing.But it’s $6,000 + $8,000 (rebates/incentives) = $14,000 in savings! | | Consider environmental benefitsof reduced greenhousegas emissions. | Sure. Hot water from the sun! | | Understand the routine maintenance neededfor optimal performance. | Need to clean the air filter every six months. Looks pretty simple? | | Identify local service providers experienced with heat pumptechnology. | We talked with several providers and chose Emerald Eco, who specializes in home electrification. | | Check warranty termsand conditions. | 10 year warranty on parts, 1 year on service. | | Consider how to managehot water needsduring power outages. | Water is on a well (electric pump), so there’s no water in outage anyway. Future battery option?But - if you’re not on a well, the “tank” of hot water will last for a day or two without electricity.And, all but the least efficient gas water heaters also now require electricity, so this is also a consideration. | | Evaluate the option ofhybrid models with backupheating elements. | Check. Has regular heating elements, but we turned them off to save energy. | ## Heat Pump Water Heater Installation - Conclusion Heating water in a residence is typically the second biggest use of energy, representing 12-15% of the total. By switching to a heat pump water heater, you can cut this down, and likely save money on energy bills. And for the next few months anyway, there are some big savings to be had with rebates and tax incentives - making it a good time to make these moves and do something that may even pay for itself over the life of the new water heater. In the case of my dad, the upgrades needed were too extensive on his 75-year-old house to make this a purely economic tradeoff, but he was able to get some pretty major electrical improvement work done at a discount while also saving money on his energy bills. ### Why are “home battery” systems so expensive? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/batteries/why-are-home-battery-systems-so-expensive/ Last updated: 2025-08-23T15:30:40.000Z Global turnkey Battery Energy Storage System (BESS) prices fell \~40% YoY in 2024 to about $165/kWh, the steepest drop since [BloombergNEF](https://about.bnef.com/insights/clean-energy/global-cost-of-renewables-to-continue-falling-in-2025-as-china-extends-manufacturing-lead-bloombergnef/?ref=ampmyhome.com) began its survey. This report got a lot of [excited](https://www.volts.wtf/p/solarstorage-is-so-much-farther-along?ref=ampmyhome.com) [coverage](https://www.energy-storage.news/behind-the-numbers-bnef-finds-40-year-on-year-drop-in-bess-costs/?ref=ampmyhome.com) [when released](https://www.canarymedia.com/articles/batteries/chart-lithium-ion-battery-prices-fall-yet-again?ref=ampmyhome.com). Yet U.S. home storage systems have actually gotten more expensive and remain pricey - a Tesla Powerwall 3 home battery costs almost $17,000 installed in August 2025, or $1,245/kWh[1](#fn1-10907) \- **7.5x the cost**. ![Chart of declining BESS costs vs rising home battery costs](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/08/bess-cost-comparison-trend-2024.png) Declining BESS system costs vs Rising Home Battery costs Even taking into account regional price spreads - China at ≈$101/kWh vs U.S. ≈$236/kWh for turnkey systems - the Powerwall home battery is **still 5.3x these costs**. Even with the current 30% tax credit, set to expire at the end of 2025, it’s “only” 3.7x the cost. What gives? ## What “cheap batteries” do — and don’t — cover BNEF’s “turnkey system” includes the battery rack (DC block), PCS/inverter, and EMS — more than just cells. However, in residential PV+storage, there’s much more involved. Using Tesla’s online quoting tool as a guide, they break out the following costs in addition to the Powerwall 3 itself (listed at $8,200 before tax incentives) for a typical installation: - Gateway - $900 - Accessories - $200 - Installation - $6,600 - Tax - $918 Summarized in a graph, the cost stack looks like this, with install costs representing nearly 40% of the total (again, pre-incentives): ![Chart of cost breakout for a Powerwall 3 home battery system in 2025](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/08/powerwall-3-cost-breakout.png) Where the money goes for a Tesla Powerwall home battery system ## The residential home battery storage soft-cost stack that won’t budge Of course, bigger battery systems are cheaper per watt (economies of scale), but **soft costs dominate** the last mile of home battery installations. The cost to install the Powerwall expansion pack at the same time (another 13.5kWh of capacity) is an additional $5,300, or only $393/kWh. Most of the Powerwall home battery system cost goes into the installation work and associated hardware, not the battery system itself. Dealer/financing fees commonly embedded in residential prices can add \~5–50% to the reported system price. These fees are only partially reflected in the above cash prices, but would add to the cost of any systems purchased this way. Large state-by-state price effects in the underlying solar installation costs (\~$2/W, or +/-25% from median) and high variability signal policy, permitting, and market-structure drivers beyond hardware, likely also reflected in home battery storage systems’ installed price, as many battery systems are installed with solar. (Lawrence Berkeley Lab’s “[Tracking the Sun](https://emp.lbl.gov/tracking-the-sun?ref=ampmyhome.com)” report.) ![Chart of cost by state for installed solar systems - 2023](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/08/residential-solar-installed-price-per-watt-by-state-2023.png) Cost variation by state (+/- $1/watt) for installed solar systems - LBL.gov ## Battery market structure and scale Utility-scale buyers benefit from bulk procurement, standardized designs, and fierce global competition (particularly in China), which push turnkey costs down much faster than in fragmented regional markets. The residential home battery storage market in the US is highly fragmented, closely aligned with the 10,000 solar installers here, although just 10 companies do about 1/3 of all the installations. This market will see massive disruptions with the sunsetting of the 30% tax credit at the end of 2025, which will cause an immediate increase of +43% to the net price to the consumer for these systems (remember math - if something costs $70 – a 30% discount off $100 – increasing the price by +$30 = +$30 / $70 = +43%). ## What could actually lower home battery system prices ### **Attack soft costs** Streamlined permitting and standardized designs. Eduardo Pelegri illustrates some detailed [new battery design examples](https://pelegri.substack.com/p/modern-residential-batteries-summer) that may help. But these are still pretty complex systems. ### **DIY installation** What if you don’t need someone to install the battery at all? There are a number of vendors selling a “battery on wheels” that you just plug your devices in to and can use around your home - - [Anker Solix F3800](https://www.ankersolix.com/products/f3800-plus?variant=50451574358346&ref=ampmyhome.com) \- 3.8kWh for $2799 ($737/kWh) - [Zendure SuperBase](https://generationecostore.com/products/zendure-superbase-v6400-power-station-3?ref=ampmyhome.com) \- 6.4kWh for $4798 ($750/kWh) - [EcoFlow Delta 3 Pro](https://us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-pro-3-portable-power-station?variant=41385721004105&ref=ampmyhome.com) \- 4.1kWh for $2,699 ($658/kWh) - [Jackery Explorer 5000 Plus](https://www.jackery.com/products/jackery-explorer-5000-plus?ref=ampmyhome.com) \- 5kWh for $3499 ($700/kWh) - [Pila](https://pilaenergy.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) is introducing a more fashionable, “distributed” home battery - 1.6kWh for $1299 ($812/kWh) These devices provide easy backup and many can be configured to run as Uninterruptible Power Sources (UPS), and can also recharge from portable solar panels you just plug in (for long-term outages). Average prices for these devices are 1/2 to 2/3 the cost per kWh of the Powerwall, which closely ties to home battery system costs if you were to simply eliminate the installation charges. ### **Ditch the “home battery” concept altogether** The first electric motors in the 1920’s were sold separately as “home motors” that could power different devices around the home - much like “home batteries” are marketed today. But as we know, electric motors are now embedded in nearly every electrical appliance - dishwashers, refrigerators, AC units, washing machines, dryers, etc. Perhaps “home batteries” will go the way of the “home motor” dinosaur, as highlighted by some of these devices - - **Electric stoves**: [Impulse](https://www.impulselabs.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) cooktop and [Copper](https://copperhome.com/products/charlie?ref=ampmyhome.com) range/stove have built-in batteries to avoid electric system upgrades needed for induction stoves. - **Heat Pump/AC**: [Ecoflow Wave 3](https://www.ecoflow.com/us/wave-3-portable-air-conditioner?ref=ampmyhome.com) makes a portable heat pump, 6,100 BTU heating / cooling, that runs for 8 hours with add-on 1kWh battery pack. - **Lighting**: [GE Battery-backed light bulb](https://www.gelighting.com/led-lights/bulbs/medium-base/ge-led-battery-backup-a21-led-light-bulbs-built-flashlight?ref=ampmyhome.com), works for 5 hours in an outage. - **Garage Door Opener**: [Chamberlain/Liftmaster](https://www.chamberlain.com/ultra-quiet-wi-fi-battery-backup-garage-door-opener-with-wireless-keypad/p/B4613TMC?ref=ampmyhome.com) makes battery-backed garage door openers. - **Internet/WiFi**: [Xfinity Storm-ready WiFi](https://www.xfinity.com/learn/internet-service/xpro?ref=ampmyhome.com) comes with 4-hour battery and cellular back-up for your Internet. - And of course there’s lots of small **battery-operated appliances**... robot vacuums, dusters, mixers, leaf blowers, etc. ## Conclusion Battery hardware is cheap in the big leagues and at the component level—but home battery storage today mostly lives in a soft-cost world. Until we either standardize the residential playbook and wring out complex design, financing, permitting, and sales frictions, or eliminate the installation altogether through plug-and-play or built-in batteries, households won’t feel the “all-time low” prices the grid is seeing. --- 1. Complete installed cash pricing of $16,818 in SF Bay Area for a 13.5 kWh Tesla Powerwall 3, not including tax incentives, accessed from tesla.com on 8/21/25\. [↩︎](#fnr1-10907) ### Stealth Sustainability: Remodeling our 1960s Mid-Century Modern Ranch house for comfort, style and efficiency URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/case-studies/stealth-sustainability-remodeling-our-1960s-mid-century-modern-ranch-house-for-comfort-style-and-efficiency/ Last updated: 2025-08-21T15:45:36.000Z In 2012 we bought a mostly original 1960 mid-century modern house from the original owner. (The image on the homepage is the original blueprint!) We loved the open-plan, post-and-beam construction with massive glass windows opening out to the yard. But if you’ve ever looked into original [Eichler houses](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Joseph%5FEichler?ref=ampmyhome.com), you know there are [a lot of upgrades needed](https://www.reddit.com/r/BayAreaRealEstate/comments/1jq649o/looking%5Ffor%5Fcost%5Festimates%5Fto%5Frenovate%5Fan%5Feichler/?ref=ampmyhome.com)! Here’s the story. ## Project Snapshot - **Year Built:** 1960 mid-century modern ranch house - **Size/Layout:** 2,300 sf; 3 bedrooms; 2.5 baths; single story, open plan, big windows. - **Structure:** Post-and-beam; low-slope and flat roof; vented crawlspace (not slab) - **Original Systems:** [100-amp electrical service](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/) with knob-and-tube wiring, gas furnace with floor ducts; gas water heater; \~1,000 square feet of single-pane windows, 2 cement block/brick fireplaces. - **Primary Goals:** Preserve mid-century lines & indoor-outdoor flow; fix short-term problems; cut noise and bills; improve comfort and efficiency; open up cramped kitchen area; replace antiquated electric/plumbing systems; add earthquake resistance. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/08/Screenshot-2025-08-20-at-11.08.11---AM-1.png) ## Before & Goals (what worked / what didn’t) - **Loved**: exposed beams, high tongue-and-groove wood ceilings, massive windows with yard connection, light, views, mid-century style. - **Pain points**: cramped kitchen isolated from other rooms, old original systems and finishes, summer heat from west-facing big glass, super-noisy inefficient heat, lack of storage/cabinet space, leaky roof, almost no insulation. - **Electrification targets:** Add solar and shift as much energy use as feasible to self-generated over the long run. ## Phase 1: Fix the urgent stuff ### **Leaky Roof:** As we discovered with the first rain, the roof leaked! It turned out the previous owners had replaced the flat sections of roof, but not the low-slope sections. So we needed to replace that portion. In order to match the style with the existing section, it needed to be [tar-and-gravel](https://bobharveyroofing.com/tar-and-gravel-roof-repair-everything-you-should-know?ref=ampmyhome.com), which is the old original roofing of the era. We found a local contractor that did this kind of roof ([A&B Roofing](https://abroof.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com)), and also added another layer of foam insulation (for 4 inches total, about R-25) between the top of the roof and the tar-and-gravel waterproof layer. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/08/leaky-roof-1-1.jpeg) Leaky roof ### **Awful HVAC:** The heating system was a contractor-grade 100,000 BTU gas furnace installed in a closet in the hall that was so loud we couldn’t run it at night at all. And on winter mornings, it would take 4 hours to get the house up to 68 degrees. In addition to a sub-par furnace, there were old leaky ducts. A [blower-test of the ducts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x03Nmtvl%5FwY&ref=ampmyhome.com) revealed 32% leakage (529 cfm) to the outdoor-vented crawlspace... meaning 1/3 of the heat from the furnace was escaping before it even reached the house! After talking with a few HVAC professionals (even ones with high consumer reviews) and receiving sketchy recommendations, I found [Sandium](https://www.sandium.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) out of San Jose, who understood the concept of leaky ducts, replaced the whole system, ducts and all, for high-efficiency multi-staged, 97% efficiency furnace relocated to the crawlspace, freeing up a closet storage space in the hallway as a bonus. I had found Sandium from a recommendation from another HVAC company in the east bay who had created some incredibly detailed videos and descriptions of how they approach installing an HVAC system to maximize efficiency and minimize air leaks, but who didn’t service my area. The improvements in livability with these 2 upgrades (roof insulation and HVAC) was amazing. Dropped gas consumption (and winter bills) by 30%, eliminated all HVAC noise, and we could adjust the temperature as we needed without huge lags. ### **Added A/C:** A few years later, after some incredibly hot heatwaves (this particular day we were hotter than Phoenix, AZ) we realized we needed to get air conditioning. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/08/IMG_2825-1.png) This was a fairly simple add-on to the new furnace, but at the time it required us to switch from an old electric cooktop to a gas one, in order to avoid a [major electrical upgrade](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/) \- there was [no space nor capacity in our electric panel](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/electrical-panels-upgrade-or-replace-smart-or-not/). In doing the gas line to the cooktop, we discovered some major issues with the gas system - there was a leak in the line outside, and splicing into the gas line under the house introduced additional leaks in the fittings, requiring replacement of a portion of that line as well. (This is the challenge with doing partial upgrades to an old house... everything leads to something else needing to be fixed!) We realized a few years later how important adding A/C had been, when the whole bay area was shrouded in [smoke for days](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange%5FSkies%5FDay?ref=ampmyhome.com) on end and we could keep our house closed with [MERV 13](https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/what-merv-rating?ref=ampmyhome.com) filtered air inside. ## Phase 2: The Bigger Remodel By 2020 we were ready for the bigger project. But of course Covid delayed everything so the whole process took quite a bit longer than expected. Stay tuned for Part II! ### Can Time-of-Use Electricity Rates Save You Money? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/can-time-of-use-electricity-rates-save-you-money/ Last updated: 2025-07-31T15:30:47.000Z Electricity is one of the few products you buy before you know its price. Flip the switch today, see the bill weeks later. So can switching to a different electric rate plan - one that charges different prices depending on the time of day - save you money? Here are things to consider to help decide whether time-of-use (TOU) alone can help you … and whether automation or a home battery is really needed to realize those savings. ## TOU 101 — What It Is & How It Works Traditional “flat” electricity rates charge the same cents-per-kilowatt-hour day or night. A time-of-use plan, by contrast, divides the 24-hour clock into off-peak (low rates), mid-peak (middle rates), and peak (high rates) windows: ### Typical TOU Time and Seasonal Schedule\* | | Off-Peak | Mid-Peak | On-Peak | | ----------------- | ----------- | ------------ | --------- | | Summer (Weekdays) | 12mid - 4pm | 9pm - 12-mid | 4pm - 9pm | | Winter (Weekdays) | 12mid - 3pm | 8pm - 12mid | 3pm - 8pm | \*Your utility’s windows will vary; weekends are sometimes all off-peak. Here’s a picture showing PG&E’s EV2-A TOU Schedule: ![PG&E time-of-use electric rates for EV2-A tariff](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/pge-ev2a-tou-rate-2025-07-30.png) PG&E EV2-A time-of-use electric rates ([link](https://www.pge.com/assets/pge/docs/account/rate-plans/residential-electric-rate-plan-pricing.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com)) ### Why some utilities love TOU: **Cost reflection**: ["Peaker" power plants](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peaking%5Fpower%5Fplant?ref=ampmyhome.com) \- those generating power only for a few hot evenings a year - are pricey. High peak prices help pay for them. **Grid stability**: Price signals nudge people to shift flexible loads (dishwashers, EV chargers) outside of the peak usage danger zone. **Renewable integration**: Mid-day solar gluts make noon power cheap (wholesale rates in Europe are [sometimes negative](https://www.pv-magazine.com/2025/04/04/european-markets-hit-by-negative-electricity-prices/?ref=ampmyhome.com)!); TOU rates can encourage users to soak up that sun while discouraging the after-sunset usage spike. [**Smart meters**](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/how-does-an-electric-meter-work/) **enable this** \- they record usage in 15- or 60-minute chunks, and your bill is simply Σ(kWh × price) across all time buckets. ## Can a Household Win on TOU Alone? ### Your Load Profile Is Everything Pull your last 12 months of interval data (most utility portals have it). Graph it. See an evening mountain? That A/C, induction stove, clothes dryer and Netflix binge overlap means you’re exposed to peak rates. ![High energy use during peak time-of-use (TOU) hours](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/electric-usage-by-hour-TOU-example.png) High energy usage during peak TOU hours A daytime-heavy profile—work-from-home laptop, washing machine at noon—or EV charging at night, already lines up with cheap hours. ### Rate Spread Matters Using my PG&E territory as an example, the EV2-A TOU plan shown above with 31¢/kWh off-peak versus the 51¢/kWh “Tier 2” rate in a flat-rate plan has a spread of 20¢. Shift 10 kWh from peak to off-peak each weekday and you’ll bank: > 10 kWh × 20¢ × 250 weekdays ≈ $500/year If the spread were only 8¢, savings drop to $200. Here’s examples of Time-of-Use off-peak rates versus average rates (¢/kWh) from some utilities that offer TOU rates across the country: | Utility | State | Average Flat Rate | Off-Peak TOU Rate | Savings | | ------------- | ----- | ----------------- | ----------------- | ------------------------------- | | SDG&E | CA | 54 | 32 | 13 | | Mass Electric | MA | 37 | 32 | 5[1](#fn1-25941 "see footnote") | | PG&E | CA | 51 | 31 | 20 | | SCE | CA | 41 | 24 | 8 | | Conn Light | CT | 32 | 9 | 23 | | ConEd | NY | 32 | 3 | 29 | | Ctrl Maine | ME | 27 | 6 | 21 | | LA DPW | CA | 23 | 8 | 15 | | Reliant | TX | 16 | 5 | 11 | Note: “Average Rate” refers either to listed non-TOU residential rate for highest usage tier or 2023 EIA “Average Price” [table](https://www.eia.gov/electricity/sales%5Frevenue%5Fprice/pdf/table%5F6.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com), depending on entity. ### Your Ability to Shift Shifting 10 kWh a day out of a period of time after 3 or 4pm each day is a lot - so let’s look at the [bigger appliances](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/what-appliances-use-the-most-electricity-in-residential-homes/): 1. **EV chargers**: Most EV’s have an app that lets you set the charge times to be strictly off-peak; shifting 30 kWh/night adds up fast - saving $5-6 per day of charging, and you probably won’t notice any difference as long as your car is recharged by the next morning. 2. **Pool pumps and hot tubs**: If you have these, they are big energy users - setting timers to run pumps and heaters during off-peak hours can add up. Changing the pool pump can be simple enough; changing when you want your hot tub to be hot for your use would depend on your individual circumstances. 3. **Hot Water Heaters**: If you have one, electric hot water heaters use a lot of energy, but can also “coast” through the high rates with hot water stored in the tank; a big thermal “battery”. Modeled scenarios showed challenges (ie, running out of hot water or higher heat-loss) and [minimal savings](https://www.aceee.org/sites/default/files/pdfs/Can-Heat-Pump-Water-Heaters-Teach-the-California-Duck-to-Fly.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) using traditional electric water heaters, even with > 30c/kWh rate differences. Newer heat pump water heaters with larger tanks and built-in timers were more effective in using this method. 4. **Smart thermostats**: AC and electric heat or heat pumps are also big energy users - while you can set thermostats to [“pre-heat” or “pre-cool” your residence,](https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2014/data/papers/1-768.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) doing this for more than a couple hours may sacrifice too much comfort. 5. **Other appliances**: Looking at other high-use appliances, shifting use of an electric dryer - which uses between 1.5 to 6 kWh per load - to off-peak times can save \~$1 per load or more. Shifting use of other appliances like dishwashers and clothes washer may save a little, but probably not enough to make a big difference. ### Hidden Fees Some TOU schedules tack on demand charges (the single-highest 15-minute spike each month), fixed monthly charges or minimum bills that claw back small-household gains. Read the fine print. ### Use Free Calculators Utilities like PG&E, [SCE](https://www.sce.com/save-money/rates-financing/rate-plan-comparison-tool?ref=ampmyhome.com#RateLanding), and Duke Energy provide rate-comparison tools that apply each tariff to your actual historical usage—your most reliable forecast. ### The Bottom line: If you can shift at least 20% of your annual consumption - at least 10kWh per day - and your utility offers a generous spread, TOU can shave 10-30% off a typical residential bill. ## When TOU Backfires - **Inflexible loads**: Medical equipment, life-support devices or HVAC running 24/7 erase your control. Inconvenient scheduling can also erase savings or create conflict between household members who might need to keep specific schedules. - **Renters without appliance autonomy**: If the landlord decides when the heat pump or water heater runs, and you don't have an EV or can't charge at home, you might be stuck. - **Narrow discounts**: Plans with just a 5¢ spread rarely justify the effort. ## Enter the Home Battery — Changing the time-of-use game A stationary battery (think Tesla Powerwall, LG RESU, Enphase IQ) lets you practice energy arbitrage: buy electricity cheap, store it, then “sell” it back to yourself during peak. ### How It Works - Charger fills the battery overnight at off-peak rates of 31¢/kWh (PG&E EV2-A example). - Between 4 p.m. and 9 p.m., the battery discharges, powering your home instead of the grid, avoiding the 62 ¢/kWh peak rate. - Round-trip efficiency is roughly 90%, so the effective cost of that stored kWh is 34.4¢—still far below peak, and lower than flat-rate pricing. - You don’t need to change your behavior (except for an EV - you should still charge during off-peak) - the battery takes care of the shift. ### Sizing & Economics **Capacity**: A 10–13 kWh pack covers the evening peak for most households. **Output**: 5 kW continuous handles typical air-conditioning or cooking loads, and other incidentals. **Payback math**: Suppose you move 10 kWh/day from peak to off-peak and save 28¢ per KWh. That’s $1,022/year. For a $9,000 battery (after a 30 % federal tax credit), payback is about 8–9 years, before any incentive stacking. With about a 10-year life for the battery, you're basically covering the entire cost of the battery with energy savings. ## Solar + Battery Synergy with time-of-use If you already have rooftop solar with no battery, the sun setting or cloudy afternoons force you to pull expensive grid power right when you need it for AC or preparing dinner. A battery extends solar self-consumption past dusk. Under California’s NEM 3.0/NBT, exported excess earns only 5–8 ¢/kWh, so storing it and avoiding a 53 to 62¢/kWh grid purchase is a huge upgrade. ### Beyond Bill Savings We’ve shown how TOU arbitrage or solar + battery can basically pay back your battery investment. You get more benefits: - **Resilience**: A battery keeps lights, Wi-Fi, and other devices and appliances running through outages. - **Demand response or** [**Virtual Power Plant (VPP) programs**](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/virtual-power-plant-vpp-trials-bay-area/): Some utilities pay you extra to discharge your battery during grid emergencies or peak hours. - **Carbon factor**: Shifting from gas-peaking plants (the usual source of peak power) to surplus midday solar reduces your personal CO₂ footprint. ### TOU Case Study Hypothetical Example > Family: 3-person suburban California > Annual usage: 10,800 kWh (≈ 30 kWh/day) > Rate: SCE TOU-D-PRIME— 24¢ off-peak, 52-55¢ peak > Battery: 13.5 kWh, 5 kW, installed cost $11,500 → $8,050 after tax credit During year one, the battery discharged an average 9 kWh each peak evening, saving $980 on energy charges. Net bill fell from $3,700 → $2,700\. Simple payback: 8.2 years (assuming zero financing cost). Bonus: a 9-hour outage during a spring storm passed almost unnoticed. ## Time-of-use decision checklist: Is TOU (With or Without Storage) Right for You? - **Do you have access to a TOU tariff**? Some cooperatives still lack the metering infrastructure; not all utilities offer TOU. Is the off-peak vs non-TOU pricing a big enough difference? - **Is your current load peak-heavy?** Check usage graphs—don’t guess. - **Can you automate flexibility?** Simple time-based automations on EV, pool pump and household thermostat settings are easy to schedule; smart plugs cost $10 and can switch off smaller loads. - **Solar owner or planning to be?** Batteries amplify ROI under export-unfriendly rules which are becoming more common. - **Local incentives?** Many states layer rebates (e.g., California’s SGIP, Vermont’s Bring-Your-Own-Device). - **Risk appetite:** Hardware prices fall \~5 % per year; waiting can pay, but so can earlier savings. If you can tick at least several boxes, the odds point toward savings. ## Conclusion — Your Next Step Time-of-Use rates transform electricity from a flat-rate commodity into a dynamic puzzle. Without storage, savings come from behavioral hacks and appliance scheduling. Add a battery, and you unlock full control—shaving peaks, soaking up solar and using it later, and insulating yourself from outages - you can almost become a [day trader for energy](https://www.amber.com.au/electricity?ref=ampmyhome.com) (well, in Australia). My own battery + CA NEM2 solar + PG&E EV2-A rate resulted in a net surplus of energy dollars at the end of my first full year, and we only had to coast through one outage with backup. But, NEM2 is no longer available - has anyone run the battery+TOU calculations without solar? Or with solar on NBT or other states’ rate plans? --- 1. Massachusetts only allows EV charging at the lower TOU rate. [↩︎](#fnr1-25941) ### How does an electric meter work? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/how-does-an-electric-meter-work/ Last updated: 2025-07-24T21:01:11.000Z An electric meter measures the amount of electrical energy a home or building uses over time, in kilowatt-hours (kWh). Simple enough - but there’s way more to it. ### 🔌 Basic Principle of an Electric Meter Electric meters track the flow of electricity through the main service line coming into your home. They measure: **Voltage (V)** – the "pressure" that pushes electric current. **Current (A)** – the flow of electricity. The product of voltage × current × time gives [**Energy**](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/energy-units-of-measure-in-the-home/), recorded in **kWh.** ## Mechanical Electric Meters In the old days (say, 2009 and before) most electric meters were mechanical devices with a rotating aluminum disk that spins faster with higher electric use. Gears connect the spinning disk to a readout, with dials pointing to numbers or directly read out numbers much like old-style automotive odometers. These mechanical meters required a person - either the homeowner, or more likely an electric company worker, to read each meter monthly in order to generate a bill. [Wikipedia has a detailed history and descriptions](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electricity%5Fmeter?ref=ampmyhome.com) of these types of meters. ## Electronic “Smart” Meters Today, most electric meters are electronic. I’ll describe how these work based off of my utility, PG&E, which is probably representative of other utilities in the US. ### ⚙️ 1\. Sensing Electricity **Electronic measurement**: The meter employs solid-state sensors and microprocessors to continuously record voltage, current, and power consumption. This electronic approach improves accuracy over old spinning-disk meters ![Smart Meter block diagram](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/smart-meter-block-diagram.jpg) Smart Meter Block Diagram (Toshiba makes chips for these, the pink blocks/TMP numbers) ### 🌐 2\. Communication with PG&E Smart Meters communicate with PG&E over two-way radio links and other network elements back to PG&E's central systems. The main components include: **Primary RF link (900 MHz)**: Every hour (residential) or every 15 minutes (commercial), the meter sends encrypted usage data via a [secure 900 MHz radio](https://wiki.recessim.com/view/Silver%5FSpring%5FNetworks%5FProtocol?ref=ampmyhome.com) to a another meter (in a mesh configuration) or to nearby data collector—often mounted on a utility pole. They call this the “Neighborhood Area Network”. **Collector to utility network**: The poleside devices forward aggregated data over a cellular connection to PG&E’s central meter reading system. **Integration with billing system**: The meter reading system is connected in to PG&E's billing system - which seems like it's quite an old, legacy system they want to [spend a lot of money](https://pelegri.substack.com/p/7613-million-for-a-billing-system) to replace. ![PG&E smart meter reading and billing system diagram](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/pge-smart-meter-diagram.jpg) PG&E's Smart Meter reading and billing system ### 🏠 3\. In-Home Connectivity PG&E SmartMeters include a [Zigbee](https://csa-iot.org/all-solutions/zigbee/?ref=ampmyhome.com) 2.4 GHz radio for communicating usage data to home energy devices (they call this the “Home Area Network”). For example, using a $40 [Emporia Vue Utility Connect device](https://www.emporiaenergy.com/how-the-vue-utility-connect-works/?ref=ampmyhome.com), you can see your own real-time electricity usage data on your phone or computer. (If you're feeling really ambitious, there's even a way to [hack the device](https://github.com/nekorevend/esphome-emporia-vue-utility/blob/main/README.md?ref=ampmyhome.com) to give real-time energy tracking in [Home Assistant](https://www.home-assistant.io/?ref=ampmyhome.com).) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/emporia-vue-zigbee.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/emporia-vue-utility-connect-device.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/emporia-vue-utility-connect-usage-graph.jpg) Real-time monitoring electricity usage from Smart Meter using Emporia device ### 🔒 4\. Two-Way, Secure and Remote Control Two-way communication allows PG&E to push firmware updates and programming, and (in some cases) [remotely disable](https://abc7news.com/archive/7555472/?ref=ampmyhome.com) or enable service. Data transmissions are encrypted and comparable in strength to everyday devices. For instance, the RF emissions are about 300× lower than a cell phone at 10 feet. ### 📊 5\. Benefits for You **Hourly data tracking**: Log into your PG&E account to view energy usage, hour by hour. You can also connect this data to your own applications through API's, such as [Apple Home](https://support.apple.com/guide/iphone/view-electricity-usage-and-rates-iphb93a7973e/ios?ref=ampmyhome.com) and [Home Assistant](https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/opower/?ref=ampmyhome.com). Unfortunately, this data is delayed by 2-3 days due to PG&E's systems. **Time-of-use plans**: Smart meters enable dynamic billing based on when electricity is used—higher during peak hours and lower during off-peak periods. This can help you save money by using power during less expensive times of day. ### 📊 6\. Operational efficiencies and improvements PG&E has used their Smart Meter network and capabilities to improve their operational efficiencies: **Reduce costs**: Obviously, they no longer need to send personnel around to each house every month to read the meters. **Smart-grid features**: They're foundational to demand response programs, [virtual power plants](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/virtual-power-plant-vpp-trials-bay-area/), outage detection, efficiency improvements, and wildfire prevention strategies. PG&E [outlined some of their past tests here](https://www.pge.com/assets/pge/docs/about/corporate-responsibility-and-sustainability/PGE-EPIC-Project-1.14.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) \- outage and restoration detection seems like it’s one of the bigger benefits. ### 🤔 7\. Health, Security, Privacy **Health**: Studies show RF exposure from smart meters is minimal and significantly lower than common wireless devices **Security**: PG&E uses encryption and network safeguards. Early versions had remote disconnect features disabled until security was verified. However as with any pools of electronic data and distributed systems, [cybersecurity is always a challenge](https://www.smart-energy.com/industry-sectors/smart-meters/how-hackers-target-smart-meters-to-attack-the-grid/?ref=ampmyhome.com). **Privacy**: In California, there are laws that protect the privacy of utility customer information. However, as with many data collection activities, [sometimes this law gets broken](https://www.abc10.com/article/news/local/sacramento/sacramento-utilitys-data-sharing-police-triggers-privacy-lawsuit/103-f0ee2fe5-be29-4968-84db-2c4c88c141ab?ref=ampmyhome.com)! ### What else? Recently, companies have started to take advantage of the fact that electric meters in the US “plug in” using a standard system - most residential systems use a “Form 2S” plug-in meter. [Eduardo explains](https://pelegri.substack.com/p/meters-and-meter-collars) how this enables all sorts of simplified solar, battery, and electric additions that require less manual labor. ![Electric meter collar installation](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/tesla-meter-collar-exploded-view.png) Simplified battery & solar installation with electric meter collar ### Electrical panels - Upgrade or replace? Smart or not? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/electrical-panels-upgrade-or-replace-smart-or-not/ Last updated: 2025-07-19T15:30:48.000Z Your home’s electrical panel, otherwise known as "breaker box" or "service panel", is the central hub for electrical distribution in your home. It’s also a key item to take into account when electrifying or remodeling. ## Main Functions of a Residential Electrical Panel  - **Receives Power**: Electricity enters your home from the utility company through a [main service](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/) line and goes into the main electric panel. - **Main Breaker**: A main panel has a main breaker that can shut off all power to the house. Some houses have multiple electrical panels, with one main panel and another (or multiple) sub-panel(s). Sub-panels are fed from the main panel, and won’t have a main breaker, only individual circuit breakers. - **Circuit Breakers**: Inside the panel are individual circuit breakers. Each breaker controls power to a specific circuit, area or appliance (like the kitchen, bedrooms, or HVAC). - **Distribution**: Wiring from the electric panel carries electricity from the appropriate breaker out through branch circuits to the lights, outlets or appliances. When you turn on a light or device, electricity flows from the panel, through the wiring (the branch circuits) to your devices. ## Safety Features of an Electrical Panel - **Overload and Fault Protection**: If a circuit draws too much current (from too many devices or a short circuit), or if there’s a fault, the breaker “trips” and cuts off power to prevent overheating, fire, or electric shock. - **Grounding**: Panels are grounded through a wire connected to an 8 foot copper rod pounded into the earth to direct stray electricity safely into the ground, reducing shock risk. When upgrading, remodeling or electrifying your home, upgrading the electrical system is a key consideration. In my case, my 1960 ranch house had an old [Federal Pacific sub-panel](https://inspectapedia.com/fpe/FPE%5FStab%5FLok%5FHazards.php?ref=ampmyhome.com) connected to [knob-and-tube branch circuit wiring](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knob-and-tube%5Fwiring?ref=ampmyhome.com). Both of these systems are outdated and perhaps dangerous, so we replaced our home’s entire electric system! This was obviously quite expensive, but for a 65 year old house with the original system was pretty much necessary. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_1063-1.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/imagejpeg_0.jpeg) My old electric panel (left) and new smart electric panel (right) ## Types of Circuit Breakers There are different types of circuit breakers that go into an electric panel, each serving a slightly different need. Here’s a breakdown of the most common circuit breaker types found in residential settings: ### Standard Circuit Breakers - **Single-Pole Breakers**: Controls one circuit and supplies 120 volts. Common for lighting and outlets. ![Single pole circuit breaker](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4287.jpeg) Single-pole standard circuit breaker • **Double-Pole Breakers**: Controls two circuits and supplies 240 volts. Used for large appliances like dryers and ovens. ![Double-pole circuit breaker](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4284-2-1.jpeg) Double-pole standard circuit breaker ### Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) Breakers - Protects against electrical shock by detecting ground faults (when electricity escapes to the ground instead of returning to the electrical panel via the neutral wire). - Required in areas with water, such as bathrooms, kitchens, and outdoor outlets. ### Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) Breakers - Detects dangerous electrical arc faults in wiring that can cause fires. - Now required for new construction or remodels in most living spaces to prevent electrical fires. - Sometimes these breakers can be [finicky, with phantom trips](https://www.reddit.com/r/askanelectrician/comments/zlsui9/please%5Fshare%5Fyour%5Fexperiences%5Fi%5Fwas%5Ffed%5Fup%5Ffor%5Fa/?ref=ampmyhome.com). We ran into this problem with a circuit with lots of LED lights on it. ![Arc-fault circuit breaker](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4282-3-1.jpeg) Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter Breaker (AFCI) ### Combination Breakers - Some breakers combine GFCI and AFCI protection for maximum safety, especially in new homes. ![Combination AFCI+GFCI circuit breaker](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4282-2-1.jpeg) Combination AFCI+GFCI Circuit Breaker ### Tandem, Duplex, or Quad Breakers  - Allow two circuits to fit in a single breaker slot. - Useful in panels with limited space, but not allowed in all panels. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4286.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4283.jpeg) Tandem circuit breaker for 2x 120v circuits (left) and Quad circuit breaker for 2x 240v circuits (right) Each type of breaker is designed to protect your home and its occupants from different electrical hazards. ## When should you replace an electrical panel? In older homes, upgrading or adding to the electrical system can be expensive, as major parts may need to be replaced, as was the case in my home. For electrical panels, there are a few considerations: ### Age and Obsolescence - How old is the panel? Panels older than 25–40 years may not meet modern safety standards. Very old panels (like fuse boxes or certain recalled brands) can be safety or fire hazards. The panel in my house was the original, 65 years old. ### Safety Concerns - Frequent breaker trips or flickering lights can signal overloaded circuits or failing panels or wiring. - Burn marks, rust, or corrosion inside or around the panel are serious warning signs. - Strange smells (like burning plastic) indicate overheating or electrical faults and should be addressed immediately. ### Insufficient Capacity - If you’re adding major appliances (HVAC, EV charger, hot tub), adding solar or remodeling, your current panel may not handle the increased load. A [load calculation](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/#whole-house-electric-load-calculations) can help determine this, and there are [specific requirements](https://www.kumukit.com/pdf/support/System%20Planning%20Series/Home%20Electrical%20Service/National%20Electric%20Code%20%28NEC%29%20120-Percent%20Rule.pdf?200707&ref=ampmyhome.com) for adding solar. - Not enough space - no more breaker slots - for new circuits. This was also the case in my old panel - there were no more slots. ### Insurance or Code Requirements - Some insurance companies may require panel upgrades for coverage. - National or local codes may require replacement during renovations. ### Known Problem Brands - Certain panels (like Federal Pacific, Zinsco, or Challenger) are known for latent safety issues and should be replaced even if they seem to work. This is especially true if adding circuits. My old panel was a Federal Pacific, which was yet another reason to replace it. ### Visible Damage - Physical damage to the panel or breakers, such as cracks or broken parts, is a clear sign for replacement. If you notice any of these issues, it’s best to consult licensed electricians for an inspection and recommendations. ## Smart electrical panel or not? A “smart panel” can monitor and control your electric circuits automatically and from an app, in addition to providing the protection of a standard electrical panel. Here are some pros and cons of smart electric panels: **Pros**: - **Load Management:** Actively manage and prioritize which appliances get power, helping avoid costly electrical service upgrades when adding EV chargers or other high-demand devices. ​⁠For me, this saved me **a lot** of time and money, avoiding a \~$25,000 [electric service upgrade](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/). On Span’s smart panel, they call it [PowerUp](https://support.span.io/hc/en-us/articles/19145049426199-What-is-SPAN-PowerUp?ref=ampmyhome.com). - **Real-Time Energy Monitoring**: Track your home’s energy use by circuit, often via a smartphone app, helping you identify inefficiencies and save on utility bills. Nice feature, but probably not worth the cost if that’s all you need. ![Span panel energy monitoring](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4290.jpeg) Household energy monitoring with Span electric panel - **Remote Control**: Turn circuits on or off remotely, which is especially useful for managing backup power or integrating with solar and battery systems. Useful if power goes out while you’re away, to help extend battery life. ![Span mobile app for remote circuit control](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4289.jpeg) Control electric circuits remotely from Span mobile app - **Integration with Renewables**: Easily integrates with solar panels, battery storage, and electric vehicles, optimizing energy use and backup during outages. ​⁠Useful for extending battery life in a power outage, by shutting down optional circuits. ![Span mobile app view of electricity flows across solar, battery, grid](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/IMG_4288.jpeg) Solar, battery, grid electricity flows via Span mobile app **Cons**: - **Higher Upfront Cost**: Smart panels typically cost $2,000–$5,000 (plus installation), much higher than traditional panels. - **Compatibility**: Smart panels cut power to entire circuits, which may not be the best way to control devices such as electronics or HVAC systems. ​⁠Multiple rooms may be on the same circuit, giving less control and granularity than smart plugs or smart lights. In my case I had to double-up some circuits on the same Span control (ie, the AC and Oven are ganged together on a quad circuit breaker, which means Span sees them as a single “circuit”) in order to fit all the circuits in the panel. - **Complexity and Reliability**: More complex than traditional panels, with potential for software bugs, connectivity issues, or the need for updates. ​⁠I personally have not run into any of these issues with my Span panel over the past year since it was installed. - **Potential for Obsolescence**: As the technology is new, there’s a risk that brands or software support may not last as long as traditional panels. ​⁠While the Span panel has [local API’s](https://gist.github.com/hyun007/c689fbed10424b558f140c54851659e3?ref=ampmyhome.com) that can be used without cloud services, this is currently an unsupported feature. **Comparison chart**: [EnergySage](https://www.energysage.com/energy-management/the-best-smart-panel/?ref=ampmyhome.com) has a nice comparison of different smart panel brands. ### How many watts does a TV use? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/how-many-watts-does-a-tv-use/ Last updated: 2025-07-17T00:02:11.000Z A typical TV uses between 30 and 200 watts of power, depending on its size and type, not including the power used by a cable set-top box or streaming device. ## TV Energy Use The amount of [*energy*](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/energy-units-of-measure-in-the-home/) a TV uses depends on several factors: - **Type of TV**: LED/LCD TVs are generally more energy-efficient than older plasma or CRT models. - **TV Screen Size**: Larger TVs consume more power. For example, a 32-inch LED TV might use around 30–50 watts, while a 65-inch model could use 100–200 watts. - **TV Usage**: The total energy used also depends on how many hours per day the TV is on. ### Television Example Calculation  If you have a 55-inch LED TV that uses 100 watts and you watch it for 4 hours a day: - Daily energy use: 100 watts × 4 hours = 400 watt-hours (0.4 kWh) - Yearly energy use: 0.4 kWh × 30 days x 12 months = 144 kWh ### Television Annual Cost Estimate  If electricity costs $0.17 per kWh, the [national average as of April 2025](https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm%5Ftable%5Fgrapher.php?t=epmt%5F5%5F6%5Fa&ref=ampmyhome.com): - Annual cost: 144 kWh × $0.17 ≈ **$24.50 per year** According to the National Resources Defense Council ([NRDC](https://www.nrdc.org/bio/noah-horowitz/tuning-better-measurement-tv-energy-use?ref=ampmyhome.com)), there are about 285 million televisions in U.S. households and as of a few years ago, they consumed roughly 35 terawatt-hours (TWh) of electricity annually. That adds up to around **$4.5 billion per year** and a dozen large (500 MW) coal-burning power plants’ worth of electricity annually; about 4 percent of total residential power consumption. ## TV Set Top Box Energy Use Another significant energy drain associated with home televisions is the [set-top box receivers](https://energy.cablelabs.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com). Most of us subscribe to some form of pay television or streaming service, which equates to approximately 160 million set-top boxes (including DVRs). Many of these devices are owned and installed by cable, satellite, or phone providers. And since these devices are always-on, most of their energy usage occurs when people are not actively watching or recording content. ### Set Top Box Example Calculation  If you have older an [Comcast PACE set-top box](https://energy.cablelabs.com/comcast/?ref=ampmyhome.com): - Daily energy use: 32.5 watts × 24 hours = 780 watt-hours (0.78 kWh) - Yearly energy use: 0.78 kWh × 30 days x 12 months = 280 kWh. The CableLabs [site](https://energy.cablelabs.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) lists 270 kWh / year, so we’ll use that. ### Set Top Box Annual Cost Estimate  If electricity costs $0.17 per kWh: - Annual cost: 270 kWh × $0.17 ≈ **$45.90 per year** \- almost twice the energy use and cost of the TV! - By contrast, a newer AppleTV device listed on the CableLabs site uses 95% less electricity with an annual usage of only 15 kWh, which equates to **$2.55 per year**, a $43/year savings. ## TV + Streamer + Receiver Energy Use - Adding it all up In my house, my 2 TV’s, streaming boxes and receiver use about 5% of my household electricity use. The chart below shows consumption for one of the TV’s for a single day; the TV + AppleTV box + receiver uses about 240 watts when on, and the same devices average about 20 watts while in standby mode. ![Chart of Watts used by a TV + streamer + receiver over one day, while in standby and while turned on](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/tv-watts-usage-graph.jpeg) Watts used by a TV + streamer + receiver over one day, while in standby and while turned on ## How to save money The [NRDC has a guide](https://www.nrdc.org/stories/energy-vampires-keep-your-devices-wasting-energy-and-money?ref=ampmyhome.com) to reducing energy use of “energy vampires” like your TV set top box. As shown in the examples I’ve shared above, newer streaming devices like the AppleTV use much less energy than old set-top boxes, so you can trade in your old set top box for a newer model. A simple, though less convenient, method is to put your TV and set top box on a plug strip, and turn off the power there when you’re not watching TV or recording to a DVR. ### What appliances use the most electricity in residential homes? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/what-appliances-use-the-most-electricity-in-residential-homes/ Last updated: 2025-07-16T23:59:53.000Z Electricity is a cornerstone of modern living in the United States, powering everything from basic lighting to complex home entertainment systems. But what does all this cost, and how does it affect your utility bill? With the average electric bill approaching $150/month, how can you save money? Here's a look at the top energy-consuming appliances in U.S. homes. ![Top usage of electricity in US homes by appliance type](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/electricity-usage-in-us-homes-top-appliances.png) Top usage of electricity in US homes by appliance, EIA.gov ## #1 - Heating and Cooling Systems Unsurprisingly, heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems top the list of home energy usage. These systems account for nearly half of a household's energy consumption. Central air conditioners, furnaces, and heat pumps are major energy draws because they operate for extended periods during hot summers or cold winters. Looking at just electricity use, space heating appears smaller as a percentage in the above chart as many houses use natural gas as the primary heat source with electricity powering just the fan in a furnace. Given the size and cost of these systems, we’ll look at this area in depth in upcoming posts. ## #2 - Water Heaters Water heaters are the second-largest home energy consumers, responsible for about 12-15% of a household's energy use. Traditional gas or electric storage water heaters continuously heat water in a tank, leading to ongoing energy use. On-demand tankless water heaters can be more efficient as they heat water only when needed. Newer heat pump water heaters, while still using storage tanks, use energy far more efficiently than traditional storage or even on-demand tankless units. We’ll explore each of these options in more detail. ## #3 - Refrigerators and Freezers [Refrigerators and freezers run 24/7](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/how-much-electricity-does-a-refrigerator-use/), making them the third-largest energy users, about 8% of home electricity use. Older models, especially those manufactured before energy efficiency standards improved in the 1990s, consume significantly more electricity. Modern ENERGY STAR-rated appliances use up to 40% less energy. ## #4 - Lighting The shift to LED bulbs has reduced lighting-related energy consumption significantly - lighting now accounts for around 5-6% of a home’s electricity use. Back in [2006](https://nap.nationalacademies.org/read/12621/chapter/4?ref=ampmyhome.com), lighting was the #2 usage of household electricity, and accounted for about 18% of a home’s electricity use - according to [nema.org](https://www.nema.org/blog/view/2019/08/27/lighting-leads-21st-century-reduction-in-use-of-electricity-in-residential-and-commercial-buildings?ref=ampmyhome.com) as of 2019, “No other category of appliances or equipment came close to the reduction in electricity use that lighting contributed.” This alone saves the average household over $200/year in electricity costs. ## #5 - Home Electronics and Entertainment Systems [Televisions](https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/how-many-watts-does-a-tv-use/), gaming consoles, computers, and home office equipment collectively add up to about 6% of a home’s electricity usage. Even when turned off, many devices continue to use "standby power." Unplugging devices when not in use or using smart power strips can minimize this "phantom load." ## #6 - Clothes Dryers Clothes dryers can be notorious energy hogs, responsible for about 3-4% of household energy use. While [gas and electric clothes dryers](https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/gas-or-electric-dryer-which-is-better/) operate with similar efficiencies, there are often tradeoffs in cost making gas units less expensive to operate than traditional electric clothes dryers. Newer heat pump clothes dryers are more efficient than either gas or traditional electric clothes dryers - and can be cheaper to operate, but may take longer to dry clothes. ## What about pool pumps, hot tubs, and EV charging? Because relatively few homes have these, EV charging at home, pool pumps and hot tubs don’t show up in the “average” top electricity consumers - however, if you have any of these, they will be among your top 3-4 users of energy - as shown in the chart below from the EIA. We’ll cover each of these in future articles. ![EV charging, pool pumps, hot tub heating are high electricity uses for homes with them](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/07/ev-charging-pool-pumps-hot-tubs-electricity-usage.png) EV Charging, Pool pumps, Hot tub heating are high usage for homes who have them ## Tips for Reducing Electricity Costs Understanding which appliances use the most electricity empowers you to make decisions and tradeoffs about your use. Purchasing energy efficient appliances, heating, AC and hot water heating systems can save substantial amounts of money on electric bills and improve livability. Small changes in behavior can save too - for example, with my utility’s time-of-use electricity billing plans, drying a load of clothes at 6pm costs twice as much as drying them at 7am; it’s possible to save up to $2 per load just by choosing the timing wisely. Of course, drying clothes on a laundry rack outside totally eliminates the cost! ### SolarEdge-PG&E “DSGS” Program - First Impressions URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/solaredge-pg-e-dsgs-program-first-impressions/ Last updated: 2025-06-27T19:33:15.000Z Earlier this spring I signed up for a couple of [VPP trials here in the Bay Area](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/virtual-power-plant-vpp-trials-bay-area/), and subsequently wrote about my [initial experience with the Span](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/span-pg-e-save-program-first-impressions/) one. Now I’ve had the chance to experience my first SolarEdge “event”. ## SolarEdge-PG&E DSGS event - What happened DSGS, or [Demand Side Grid Support](https://www.energy.ca.gov/programs-and-topics/programs/demand-side-grid-support-program?ref=ampmyhome.com), is a way for customers to provide backup generation or load reduction during critical grid events. Last night my battery system dumped 11 kWh back out into the grid between the hours of 7-9pm and I didn’t even know it. ![SolarEdge PG&E DSGS grid event battery discharge](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/SolarEdge-DSGS-battery-discharge.png) Battery discharge during DSGS event, 7-9pm While I might have wanted to get a notification that this was happening, in reality it didn’t impact our living experience in any way, unlike the Span event. This seems like a much better way, customer experience wise, to handle demand events! ## Likely grid impact Looking at the net energy profile for my house, you can clearly see how the extra exports from 7-9pm are effectively extending energy exports into the head of the “[duck curve](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duck%5Fcurve?ref=ampmyhome.com#:~:text=The%20duck%20curve%20is%20a,thus%20the%20term%20was%20created.)” after the sun goes down and solar exports decline. ![Solaredge PG&E DSGS event, net household power export](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/grid-power-solaredge-pge-dsgs-event.png) Net house grid power during DSGS event, 7-9pm I don’t know how many households SolarEdge has signed up, but from [Sunrun’s statements](https://investors.sunrun.com/news-events/press-releases/detail/344/sunrun-dispatches-more-than-340-megawatts-of-power-in?ref=ampmyhome.com) the collective action of many people’s home batteries can make a pretty big impact. ## Cost considerations But wait, isn’t the grid getting free use of my battery? Not really - my solar system is on the legacy NEM2 net metering plan with EV2A tariff. What that means is that PG&E is crediting me at the retail electric rate of $0.62/kWh for that export, since it’s in the peak hourly range of 4-9pm. So, I earned almost $7 of credits. SolarEdge/PG&E are also paying $100 to participate for the season, across 35 events - so consider that another $2.85 - call it almost $10 total per event. ![Net household energy use with solar and DSGS battery export](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/Net-household-energy-cost-over-time--NEM2.png) Net household energy cost over time with solar and battery, NEM2 My battery system is an LG 16kWh system that’s good for 6,000 cycles, and if I assume a replacement battery is $6,000 (they’re selling online for under $3k, not including installation) that means my cost for them using my battery is about $1, not including the initial install costs which required running conduit, upgraded inverter, etc. On average, initially-installed battery systems run over $1,000/kWh[1](#fn1-27331), which would put my battery system cost at around \~$16K, or \~$2.66 per cycle. If I was on the current NBT metering rather than NEM2, my economics would be different - I haven’t looked into this much; they could actually be even better. ## Environmental impact It’s interesting to look at the likely C02 impact of exporting during these types of events. Using data from [Electricity Maps](https://app.electricitymaps.com/map/72h/hourly?ref=ampmyhome.com) combined with my home usage, I can plot my C02 impact over time - ![Net hourly household C02 impact during DSGS event](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/net-household-co2-impact-daily.png) Net hourly household C02 impact during DSGS event Clearly this makes an outsized impact - likely because, at scale, it allows less use of inefficient [gas peaker power plants](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peaking%5Fpower%5Fplant?ref=ampmyhome.com). ## SolarEdge-PG&E DSGS program - my conclusions Participation in the program was virtually invisible to me from a customer experience program - which is great! And since it seems to have both economic and grid benefits it seems like a winner. Do you participate in VPP or demand response plans? Share your thoughts below. --- 1. From Lawrence Berkeley Labs report, average installed home battery system cost in 2023 was $1,372/kWh. [See p. 33](https://emp.lbl.gov/sites/default/files/2024-10/Tracking%20the%20Sun%202024%5FReport.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com).[↩︎](#fnr1-27331) ### Lazard, solar and your energy costs URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/solar/lazard-solar-and-your-energy-costs/ Last updated: 2025-06-25T23:57:05.000Z Last week Lazard, the financial advisory firm, put out their [latest report](https://www.lazard.com/media/uounhon4/lazards-lcoeplus-june-2025.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) on the “Levelized Cost of Energy”, LCOE, comparing costs of various energy sources. Utility-scale wind and solar is cheapest, ‘gas peaking’ is the most expensive, and interestingly they dropped rooftop solar, which in the [2024 report](https://www.lazard.com/media/xemfey0k/lazards-lcoeplus-june-2024-%5Fvf.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) was the most expensive source! As I’ve started to learn about and dig in to the energy space, it got me wondering - how can that be? ![Lazard LCOE 2025 chart with 2024 residential solar comparison](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/LCOE-lazard-solar-2025-2024.png) Lazard LCOE Report, 2025 vs 2024 Rooftop Solar There’s a few missing ingredients to LCOE - that are discovered by answering these questions: ## Why is rooftop solar so much more expensive than utility solar? **\-- AND --** ## Why is what I pay at home so much more than Lazard’s LCOE? There’s pretty clear answers to each of these. **Answer #1, Rooftop Solar Costs More** \- Nearly 1/3 of the cost of rooftop solar goes to solar installer sales (customer acquisition) costs and profit/overhead. Whereas, the utility has no “sales” cost on a solar farm (if they build it themselves), and they have other places in their business to allocate overhead. Utilities also have economies of scale. **Answer #2, Retail Electricity Costs Even More** \- There’s another huge chunk of costs to delivering electricity from the utility solar farm to our houses - the transmission, distribution, other costs and profit - all the stuff outside of actual generation - almost triples the cost for electricity by the time it reaches you and me. With rooftop solar you bypass all this. ## The bottom line is that Lazard’s 2024 “expensive” rooftop solar is still cheaper to you as the consumer of electricity. Let’s look at this in more detail. ## Rooftop solar costs As noted above, sales costs and profit/overhead make up the biggest chunk of what you’d pay for rooftop solar. [Wood Mackenzie](https://www.woodmac.com/store/industry-sector/power-and-renewables/?ref=ampmyhome.com) has a great breakout of costs for solar systems: ![Residential solar cost per watt detail](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/rooftop-solar-cost-detail-woodmackenzie.png) Wood Mackenzie residential system solar cost per watt detail In comparison, utility-scale solar is much cheaper ... even though the solar panels themselves cost about the same! ![Utility solar cost per watt detail](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/utility-solar-cost-detail-woodmackenzie.png) Wood Mackenzie fixed utility system solar cost per watt detail We can then turn these $/watt costs into the equivalent $/kWh costs similar to the Lazard LCOE, here: ![Levelized cost of rooftop vs utility solar detail](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/cost-per-kwh-utility-vs-rooftop-solar-1.png) Levelized cost per kWh for rooftop vs utility solar electricity With rooftop solar you’re basically paying $0.05/kWh for all those solar salespeople to knock on doors, come to your house and create an estimate, and to close the deal. Then, because residential solar has certain requirements that utility solar doesn’t (safety - rapid shutdown, residential building codes, etc), you have to pay more for the inverters. And lastly, taxes, permitting, direct labor of putting panels on roofs and running connections for a house costs more per watt than building industrial-sized solar farms. But surprisingly you’re not paying more for the solar panels! ## Retail electricity costs But wait - these prices are (maybe) far less than what I pay for electricity - what gives? ![EIA US residential electricity prices and consumption by state](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/EIA-residential-electric-prices-and-consumption-2024.png) EIA Residential electricity prices and consumption by state, 2024 I’ll use my region in California as the example, which has some of the highest electricity rates in the country. ## Electricity generation costs Our electricity provider is PG&E, but we can choose among two generators - either PG&E, or what’s known as a “[Community Choice Aggregator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community%5FChoice%5FAggregation?ref=ampmyhome.com)“, or CCA. In my area, one of these CCA’s is Silicon Valley Clean Energy (SVCE). They provide a nice comparison of the cost elements of electricity - and yes, these are some expensive rates: ![Residential electricity cost comparison PG&E vs SVCE](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/PGE-SVCE-electric-rates-2024-1.png) Residential electricity costs breakout for PG&E and SVCE customers Now it gets complicated - what’s this “PG&E PCIA/FF" item, that adds to the SVCE price but subtracts from the PG&E price? In reality, the [PCIA/FF](https://help.pge.com/s/article/What-is-the-Power-Charge-Indifference-Adjustment-PCIA-on-my-bill?language=en%5FUS&ref=ampmyhome.com) item is part of the cost of generating electricity even though it’s listed separately. To keep electricity running 24 x 7 x 365, you obviously have to rely on many more sources than solar. There’s gas plants that need to be built and run, there’s the [Diablo Canyon nuclear power plant](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diablo%5FCanyon%5FPower%5FPlant?ref=ampmyhome.com), which recently had its life extended (with a $1.4B loan), and many other sources. These other sources in many cases were built when costs were higher (in the case of old solar farms), and there may be higher maintenance costs (for old power plants). Most importantly, there need to be enough power plants built to handle the biggest demand ever - even if that demand lasts just 1 day out of the year. All these costs factor into the difference between the cost of utility solar ($0.06) and the total cost of Generation (\~$0.15). The PCIA/FF item is a way to make sure such costs from when PG&E was a generation monopoly are equally allocated among all utility users, regardless of who you choose as your generation provider. So, the overall cost of electricity production looks like this: ![PG&E utility generation rates vs utility solar LCOE](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/Solar-cost-vs-PGE-generation-rates.png) PG&E California Electricity Generation rates vs solar LCOE costs ## Electricity delivery costs Now let’s look at that other, bigger cost - Electricity Delivery, which is more than $0.28/kWh. Breaking this out from the [PG&E tariff](https://www.pge.com/tariffs/assets/pdf/tariffbook/ELEC%5FSCHEDS%5FE-TOU-C.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com), delivery is made up of Transmission (getting power from the power plants), Distribution (getting the power to all our homes and businesses), and other costs. Utility tariffs don’t break out utility company profit, but it’s about 15-20% of the total bill, or \~$0.07/kWh in the case of PG&E ([read here](https://insideclimatenews.org/news/15062025/former-utility-exec-mark-ellis-talks-electricity-bills-energy-transition/?ref=ampmyhome.com) how that’s calculated and why it’s probably too high). These $0.28/kWh of delivery costs add up to the total retail price of $0.43/kWh. ![Cost comparison rooftop solar vs PG&E retail electricity 2024](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/cost-comparison-pge-solar-lcoe.png) Cost comparison rooftop solar vs PG&E retail residential rates, 2024 Now you can see why two things can be true at the same time: - Rooftop solar is an expensive way to generate solar electricity BUT - It still (might be) a lot cheaper than buying it from your utility! ### Notes and caveats - There are a lot of assumptions that go into the above, including: - Cost and production assumptions for solar including rooftop, pp 34-35 of Lazard report; they assume 8% cost of debt (loans) and 12% return on investment (equity) for energy projects including your home solar. - Average costs per watt for residential solar. In reality this can vary a lot, anywhere from $2.6/W to $5.9/W depending on region and installer ([p 38 by lbl.gov](https://emp.lbl.gov/sites/default/files/2024-10/Tracking%20the%20Sun%202024%5FReport.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com)). - I left out any assumptions of financial incentives (ie, assumes NO tax credits for solar - which would make rooftop solar look 30% better while it lasts). - Electric tariffs are complicated - Eduardo digs into PG&E residential tariffs more, [here](https://pelegri.substack.com/p/pg-and-e-residential-electrical-tariffs). - Probably other assumptions I’m missing. If you see some or to shoot holes in this, let me know! ### Gas or Electric Dryer? Which is better? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/gas-or-electric-dryer-which-is-better/ Last updated: 2025-06-19T17:20:40.000Z A typical U.S. clothes dryer consumes a fair amount of energy, about 3-4% of a household’s total energy use according to the Department of Energy – making it one of the bigger energy-consuming appliances in households. On average, an electric clothes dryer uses between 1.5 to 6 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity per load. A gas dryer uses about the same total energy, including electricity to run the motor (\~ 0.3kWh) and gas (4,000 to 20,000 British Thermal Units, BTUs) to dry the clothes. The exact energy consumption depends on factors such as the dryer's age, model, and efficiency rating - but most importantly on what you are drying[1](#fn1-22971). ## Clothes Dryer Energy Efficiency - Electric vs Natural Gas I was surprised at how many poor, anecdotal, and outright wrong sources of information there are comparing gas and electric dryer efficiency. Traditional gas and electric dryers are similarly efficient in drying clothes - but not in operating cost or environmental impact; and there’s other more important factors to consider (more on that below). Getting back to basics, a clothes dryer’s job is to dry clothes by evaporating the water in them. Evaporating water takes energy - about 0.64 kWh per quart (\~2 pounds) of water. Conventional gas and electric clothes dryers are 50-70% efficient, meaning that up to half of the energy they use is wasted, heating the metal in the machine, the hot air exhausted outdoors, etc. This is particularly true if the dryer over-dries the clothes, as that energy is completely wasted. Below is a graph from the American Council for an Energy Efficient Economy (ACEEE) showing the typical dryer cycle - nearly 1/2 of the dryer cycle and 1 kWh can be spent after the clothes are dry (High Heat Stage)! ![Cycle time and energy use of clothes dryer](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/clothes-dryer-energy-use-cycle-times.png) Clothes Dryer Cycle Times, Source: [ACEEE report](https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2010/data/papers/2206.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) The Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC) showed that as of 2011 (I couldn’t find more recent reliable data), traditional gas and electric dryers had similar efficiencies, using both Department of Energy (DOE) tests and “Real World” (RW) tests using bulkier clothing. ![Comparison of energy use by different types of clothes dryers](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/energy-use-comparison-clothes-dryer-types-1.png) Energy use comparison of clothes dryer types, Source: [NRDC Report](https://www.aceee.org/files/proceedings/2010/data/papers/2206.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com) Based on these reports, the bigger factors to consider with dryer efficiency were related to differences between individual models rather than gas vs electric; you could also consider heat pump dryers. To pick the most efficient: **Choose EnergyStar certified dryers** \- Clothes dryers that are [EnergyStar certified](https://www.energystar.gov/products/clothes%5Fdryers?ref=ampmyhome.com) use 20% less energy. Alternatively, ConsumerReports rates [“eco-friendly” dryers](https://www.consumerreports.org/appliances/clothes-dryers/best-eco-friendly-clothes-dryers-a1017163449/?ref=ampmyhome.com) on their site based on factors like energy use and drying performance. **Look for dryers with automatic moisture sensors** \- These types of cycles help reduce the energy-wasting high-heat stage by detecting when the water has been removed from the clothes and shutting off. **Heat Pump dryers are most efficient** \- More manufacturers are now making heat pump dryers, which can be much more efficient than either traditional gas or electric dryers, but [they come with tradeoffs](https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-dryers/?ref=ampmyhome.com#what-about-heat-pump-dryers). ## Clothes Dryer Cost of Operation - Electric vs Natural Gas The cost of operating a dryer varies based on local electricity and natural gas rates. Since electricity and gas bill for energy differently, and because gas dryers also use electricity, it can be difficult to compare costs on an apples-to-apples basis. Converting natural gas energy units (and costs) to kWh can help: - From [this table](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/energy-units-of-measure-in-the-home/#converting-natural-gas-energy-to-other-fuels), 1 therm of natural gas = 29.3 kWh - In my area, 1 therm of gas costs about $3 - Converting therms to kWh of gas = 3 / 29.3 = $0.10 / kWh. Now, let’s compare this cost to electric rates: - In my area, the lowest electricity time-of-use rate is $0.31 / kWh - over 3 times the natural gas equivalent! - However, I have rooftop solar - my cost can be zero if I run an electric dryer during the sunniest part of the day. (Not taking into account the cost and size of the solar panels - that’s for another article - but it’s still cheaper than gas.) In most areas of the US the cost for natural gas per kWh of energy is less than for electricity - unless you have rooftop solar - **which means you’ll spend less in operating costs for a gas dryer than for an electric one**. ## Environmental Impacts of Electric vs Natural Gas Clothes Dryers To understand the environmental impacts of a gas vs electric dryer, we have to understand how electricity is made. Electricity is generated by converting from another source of energy - in the US these sources are a mix of Natural Gas, Coal, Nuclear, Hydrothermal, Wind and Solar. However, these conversions aren’t 100% efficient - some of the energy is lost along the way. Here’s a graphical depiction showing this “primary source” energy use through to the dryer and your clothes: ![Source energy use by gas and electric clothes dryers](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/clothes-dryer-energy-source-carbon-impact.png) Source Energy Use by Clothes Dryers - Comparison of Gas vs Electric If all electricity were produced by solar (ie, “fuel source” equals the sun) - for example from your rooftop - an electric dryer would have the lowest environmental impact. However, if over 1/2 of the electricity in your area is produced by burning natural gas (ie, the “fuel source” is the same as for a gas dryer), then a gas dryer is likely to have a lower environmental impact - at least until the electric grid becomes more ‘green’. ### Saving Money - Primary Factors Affecting Clothes Dryer Operating Costs There are other factors under your control that influence the cost of operating a clothes dryer. In order of impact from highest to lowest: - Removing more water from the clothes before drying, for example, by using the highest spin speed on the washer. - Drying full loads rather than a larger number of partial loads - Using a lower heat setting to reduce the energy spent heating air, cloth, and metal. The clothes get just as dry, though drying time may be longer (This wears out clothes less, too.) - Using the “less dry” setting. (Most dryers have a “dryness” control independent of the temperature setting. The “less dry” setting usually gets clothes fully dry, while “normal” and “more dry” use more time and energy. The “damp dry” setting usually leaves noticeable moisture in the clothes.) Lastly, drying your clothes outside on a line or drying rack costs nothing! And is environmentally friendly. Everywhere else outside the US, this is the most common way clothes are dried. ![assorted-color hanged clothes](https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1529220355416-122440146f39?crop=entropy&cs=tinysrgb&fit=max&fm=jpg&ixid=M3wxMTc3M3wwfDF8c2VhcmNofDJ8fGNsb3RoZXMlMjBsaW5lfGVufDB8fHx8MTc1MDM1MjMzNXww&ixlib=rb-4.1.0&q=80&w=2000) Photo by [Ricardo Gomez Angel](https://unsplash.com/@rgaleriacom?ref=ampmyhome.com) / [Unsplash](https://unsplash.com/?utm%5Fsource=ghost&utm%5Fmedium=referral&utm%5Fcampaign=api-credit) ### Electric Clothes Dryer Hookups Electric clothes dryers generally operate on a 240-volt circuit, drawing a maximum current of around 30 amps. This high current requirement necessitates a dedicated circuit to the dryer location. The combination of high voltage and current allows the dryer to generate the substantial heat needed to effectively dry clothes in a reasonable timeframe. ### Gas Clothes Dryer Hookups Natural gas clothes dryers generally operate on a standard 120-volt outlet and a natural gas hookup. The electric connection powers the motor, fan and timer/electronics and the gas is burned in a burner to generate the substantial heat needed to dry clothes in a reasonable timeframe. Both gas and electric dryers are vented to the outdoors, but with gas this is especially important due to the exhaust gases created by burning gas. ### Conclusion Both electric and gas clothes dryers are common and convenient, with similar energy consumption. However, operating costs can vary substantially depending on your energy rates. Electric dryers that can take advantage of solar are cheaper to operate and generate less pollution and carbon than gas. Without solar, in most parts of the country gas dryers will have the operating cost advantage. In general, more efficient clothes dryers of either type, such as EnergyStar rated, can pay back the increased purchase prices with operating savings over their lifetime. --- 1. For example, a load of all-cotton clothes can take more than twice as long to dry - and use a lot more energy - than a load of half cotton and half synthetic clothes. [Reference](https://www.nrdc.org/sites/default/files/ene%5F14060901a.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com)[↩︎](#fnr1-22971) ### How Much Electricity does a Refrigerator Use? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/appliances/how-much-electricity-does-a-refrigerator-use/ Last updated: 2025-06-16T16:46:09.000Z Refrigerators are tirelessly working around the clock to keep your food fresh and beverages cool. Given their constant operation, they are among one of the larger contributors to household energy consumption (in my house, my fridge is about 5% of my total electricity usage). Understanding how much energy a typical refrigerator uses, the maximum current it draws, its operational costs, and the factors influencing these costs can help you make energy-efficient choices. ## Energy Consumption of a Typical U.S. Refrigerator Modern refrigerators are more energy-efficient than their older counterparts, thanks to advancements in technology and stricter energy standards. On average, a standard 18-20 cubic foot refrigerator, common in many U.S. homes, consumes between 300 to 800 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity annually. Energy Star-rated models tend to be on the lower end of this range, using as little as 250 kWh/year. My own fridge, which is on the larger size, averages about 50 kWh/mo – or 600 kWh/year. ![Monthly Energy Use for a Refrigerator for a year](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-12-at-3.19.27---PM.png) Energy Usage of my refrigerator for a year In contrast, older refrigerators—those manufactured before the mid-1990s—used upwards of 1,000 kWh/year or more. This big difference highlights the benefits of upgrading to newer, more efficient models when possible; you can save 50% or more! ### Maximum Current Draw The maximum current, or amperage, a refrigerator uses depends on its size, design, and features. A standard household refrigerator draws between 3 to 6 amps during regular operation. However, the compressors and defrost heaters will cycle on and off to keep the temperature constant, as shown in the graph below; the spike around 10 am is likely the freezer defrost cycle. During the compressor start-up phase, the current can spike to around 10 to 15 amps momentarily. This surge, known as the "inrush current," is brief but important to consider. ![Detailed Energy Use of a Refrigerator for a day](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/06/Screenshot-2025-06-12-at-3.04.30---PM.jpeg) Detailed Refrigerator Energy Usage for a day Refrigerators in the U.S. operate on 120-volt circuits, and it's common practice to allocate a dedicated circuit rated at 15 to 20 amps to accommodate this occasional surge without tripping breakers. ## Cost of Operating a Refrigerator To estimate the annual cost of running a refrigerator, you can use the following formula: Annual Cost = (Annual kWh Usage) × (Cost per kWh) Assuming an average electricity rate of $0.16 per kWh (though this can vary by region - in California it’s as high as $0.60 during summer peak hours!), here’s some examples: - A typical fridge using 400 kWh/year at $0.16/kWh = $64/year - My fridge using 600 kWh/year at $0.35/kWh = $210/year Thus, upgrading to a new energy-efficient model can save over $100 per year, which adds up over the appliance’s lifespan. ### Primary Factors Driving Cost of Operation Several factors influence how much it costs to operate a refrigerator: **Key Factors That Affect Refrigerator Operating Costs** - Age of the Appliance Older refrigerators (10+ years) are up to 50% less efficient than modern ENERGY STAR units. Replacing an aging fridge can cut operating costs in half. - Size and Configuration Larger refrigerators consume more energy, as do models with through-the-door ice and water dispensers. - Energy Efficiency Rating ENERGY STAR models meet strict efficiency guidelines set by the EPA. Look for the yellow EnergyGuide label to compare estimated annual energy use before buying. - Ambient Temperature Refrigerators in hot environments (e.g., garages) work harder to maintain internal temperatures, increasing energy use. - Door Usage and Seal Quality Frequently opening the door, or having worn-out gaskets, allows cold air to escape and warm air to enter—making the compressor run more. - Temperature Settings Overly cold settings can waste energy. Recommended temps: Fridge: 37–40°F, Freezer: 0°F. - Maintenance Dirty condenser coils can reduce efficiency. Clean them every 6–12 months to ensure optimal operation. ## Conclusion Understanding your refrigerator’s energy consumption and operational costs can lead to smarter energy usage and significant savings. Regular maintenance, mindful usage habits, and investing in energy-efficient models are key strategies for reducing both environmental impact and household energy bills. ### SPAN-PG&E "Save" Program - First Impressions URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/span-pg-e-save-program-first-impressions/ Last updated: 2025-05-31T18:17:29.000Z ## Using an electric panel as a VPP is clunky I wrote in April about a [couple of Virtual Power Plant (VPP) trials](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/virtual-power-plant-vpp-trials-bay-area/) taking place in the Bay Area, and last night I had the first opportunity to participate in a demand response “event” - via SPAN’s PG&E “SAVE” program. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/05/Screenshot-2025-05-31-at-10.45.48---AM.png) In advance of the event, I prioritized the circuits in Span’s “Power Up” interface, with the circuits most open to curtailment at the top of the list: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/05/IMG_4134-1-1.png) Event was scheduled to take place from 5-7pm. It was a hot day and we were away from the house at the start, so the largest electric load was the AC. It was sunny, the solar panels were producing about 4.5kW of power, and the 16kWh battery was almost fully charged. At 5pm, the Span system decided to limit our energy consumption by toggling the AC outdoor unit on and off in cycles - 5 to 20 minutes off, 15 seconds on. It did this until we got home around 6pm, and I shut off the AC. At that point household consumption was under 1kW, grid export was about 2kW and the Span system took no further action. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/05/Screenshot-2025-05-31-at-10.55.29---AM-1.png) It seems to me that toggling off and on an AC outdoor unit by cutting power on the circuit in this way could be really bad - I can’t imagine firing up an AC compressor for 15 seconds at a time is good for it. Further, if my unit had been a more complex inverter heat pump, I could imagine this toggling might even fry something (it’s a simple 1-stage AC unit, so not an issue in my case). Typically electric company demand response systems are more purposefully integrated into an HVAC system, either through a hard-wired utility system (such as [this](https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/utility-and-grid-solutions/load-control-switches.html?ref=ampmyhome.com)) or through smart thermostat control (such as how OhmConnect / Nest and now [Renew Home](https://www.renewhome.com/for-your-home?ref=ampmyhome.com) implement HVAC controls). ## What impact did this likely have to the electric grid? In terms of benefits to the electric grid, Span’s curtailment of my electric usage resulted in an increase in solar export of about +3kW at 5pm, slowly declining as the sun set. But my 16kWh battery was just sitting there fully charged - as Span’s program was not able or didn’t plan to consider the storage aspects available to the grid, even though my solar, storage and Span panel are networked together. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/05/IMG_4139-1-1.png) A more useful demand response management approach could have been to began discharging the battery at a 5kW rate - this would have resulted in more benefit to the grid with zero impact on my own AC usage. Alternately, a combination of battery discharge coupled with modest thermostatic setback of the AC could produce even greater benefits with less consumer impact. ## Span SAVE program - my conclusions It was fun to try out this new Span program - I think there’s a lot of potential for energy savings and both grid and homeowner benefits with flexible demand control. However, I will not be participating further in the current program, as there are too many shortcomings with the current implementation - unnecessary stress on AC system, inability to coordinate with storage and solar, and inconvenient impacts to the household. I’m now looking forward to see what SolarEdge’s program is like - but first I have to get the SolarEdge communication system working again! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/05/IMG_4142-1.png) ### Electricity & Energy - Units of Measure in the Home URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/energy-units-of-measure-in-the-home/ Last updated: 2025-06-18T22:54:08.000Z When talking about electricity usage in a house, it's important to understand several key electricity units of measurement. These units help describe how much electricity you’re using, how fast you’re using it, and how that translates into your electric bill. Here are the most important ones: ### Watt (W) - What it measures: Power — the rate at which electricity is used. - Think of it as: The speed of electricity usage. - Example: A 60-watt light bulb uses 60 watts of power when it's turned on. ### Kilowatt (kW) - What it is: 1 kilowatt = 1,000 watts. - Why it's used: Appliances and home systems often use more than just a few watts; kilowatts make the numbers easier to understand. - Example: A small window air conditioner might use about 1 kW (1,000 watts) of power. ### Kilowatt-hour (kWh) - What it measures: Energy — the total amount of electricity used over time. - Think of it as: The amount of electricity used (like gallons of gas for your car). - Why it matters: This is what your utility company charges you for. - Example: If you run a 1,000-watt (1 kW) appliance for 1 hour, you use 1 kWh of electricity. ### Volt (V) - What it measures: Voltage — the pressure that pushes electric current through wires. - Home standard: In the U.S., standard voltage for most household outlets is 120 volts, while large appliances like ovens or dryers use 240 volts. ### Ampere or Amp (A) - What it measures: Current — the flow of electricity. - Think of it as: The volume of electricity moving through a wire. - Example: A microwave might draw 10 amps at 120 volts. ### A Note on “Power” vs “Energy” It can be confusing sometimes between what is “power” and what is “energy” in electricity, because both have “kilowatt” in their measure. A simple analogy to Aesop’s fable of “The Tortoise and the Hare” can illustrate the differences in concept: In the parable, the hare runs very fast (he has high power). He sprints ahead quickly — burning a lot of energy in a short time. But he takes breaks and naps, so doesn't keep moving the whole time. The tortoise moves slowly but steadily (he has low power). He never stops, using a little energy constantly. Over time, he ends up covering more ground. **Power** \= speed of energy use (how fast you're going) The hare has more power, but doesn't use it continuously over time. The tortoise has less power, but uses it consistently over time. **Energy** \= total work done (how far you've gone) The tortoise uses more total energy over the time to reach the finish line to win the race. ## 🔌 How It All Connects in Your Home: Power (Watts) = Voltage (Volts) × Current (Amps) Energy Used (kWh) = Power (kW) × Time (hours) For a 1500-watt space heater plugged into a wall outlet: - In the US the voltage of the wall outlet is 120V. So the amount of current drawn by the heater is: 1500 W ÷ 120 Volts = **12.5 Amps** - If on for 2 hours, the amount of energy used by the heater is: 1500 W ÷ 1000 = 1.5 kW 1.5 kW × 2 hours = **3 kWh** - If your electricity rate is $0.15 per kWh, this costs: 3 × $0.15 = **$0.45** Extending the tortoise and hare analogy to common home appliances – - An electric clothes dryer might have a power rating of 4,500 watts. - A computer router might have a power rating of 45 watts. The dryer requires 100X the power to run than the router! But, the router is likely to run all the time – using 45w X 24 hours X 7 days / 1,000 watts/kWh = 7.6kWh in a week Where the dryer might dry 2 loads of clothes in a week – using 4,500w X .75 hours per load X 2 loads / 1,000 watts/kWh = 6.8kWh If your electricity rate is $0.15 per kWh, then: - The router costs 7.6 x $0.15 x 4 weeks/mo = $4.56 per month - The dryer costs 6.8 x $0.15 x 4 weeks/mo = $4.08 per month The router (the tortoise) costs more to operate than the dryer (the hare) because it uses more energy, even at 1/100th of the power! ### TL;DR — Household Electricity Units Cheat Sheet: | Unit | Measures | Used For | | ------------------- | -------- | --------------------------------- | | Watt (W) | Power | How fast an appliance uses energy | | Kilowatt (kW) | Power | Larger devices (1 kW = 1000 W) | | Kilowatt-hour (kWh) | Energy | Total energy used over time | | Volt (V) | Voltage | Electrical pressure | | Amp (A) | Current | Amount of electrical flow | There are other types of energy used in the house, that we can compare with electricity, natural gas (methane) and gasoline being the most common. ## Natural Gas units of measure – here are the most important ones: ### British Thermal Unit (BTU) - What it is: Energy — the total amount of gas energy used over time. - Think of it as: The amount of energy used (heat created) burning gas. - Example: A single burner on a gas stove might use 8,000 BTU’s per hour of energy. ### Therm - What it measures: Energy – 1 Therm = 100,000 BTU’s of energy. - Why it's used: Appliances and home systems often use 10’s of thousands of BTUs; Therms make the numbers easier to understand. - Why it matters: This is what your utility company charges you for. - Example: An entire home might use 3,500,000 BTU’s of gas energy in a month, which would be expressed as 35 Therms of usage on the bill. ### Cubic Foot (ft3) - What it measures: Volume — the total amount of natural gas used over time. Many gas meters measure in increments of 100 Cubic Feet (CCF). - Think of it as: The amount of natural (methane) gas used (like gallons of gasoline for your car). - Why it matters: This is how your utility company measures how much natural gas you use. ### Therm Conversion Factor (Therms per 100 Cubic Feet) - What it measures: Energy per Volume — the amount of energy in 100 cubic feet of gas. Also referred to as ‘Multiplier’, ‘Heating Value’, ‘Gas Energy Conversion Rate’ or similar. This value usually varies from 0.95 to 1.03 depending on the energy content of the gas the utility is providing. - Why it matters: Your utility company charges you for the energy in the gas, not just the gas itself. - Example: If your gas meter measures 1900 cubic feet of gas consumed, and your utility has a Therm Conversion Factor of 1.02, then the number of Therms you would be charged for is 1900 ft3 X 1.02 / 100 = 19.4 Therms. ## Gasoline Units of measure – here are the most important ones: Is gasoline really an important measure for your home? Yes, if you are considering getting or have an electric car and want to know how to compare costs and energy consumption to a gasoline one. ### Gallon - What it is: Volume — the total amount of gasoline, used over time. - Why it's used: While a gallon of gasoline measures volume, it is used interchangeably to represent a standard unit of energy. - Think of it as: The amount of gasoline usage to create energy; can be compared to kWh of electricity or cubic feet of natural (methane) gas. ### Miles per Gallon - What it measures: Efficiency – the distance a car can go on one gallon of gasoline. - Why it's used: It’s a simple metric to compare the cost and energy efficiency of different vehicles. We’ve discussed different forms of energy in the home. Can all these different energy measures and units be compared and converted between them? You bet! Here’s a comparison table with conversion factors for all of the above metrics: ### Converting Electric Energy to other fuels | Electricity Unit | Equivalent in Natural Gas | Equivalent in Gasoline | | ------------------- | -------------------------------- | ----------------------------- | | Kilowatt-hour (kWh) | 1 kWh = 3,412 BTU ≈ 0.0341 Therm | 1 kWh ≈ 0.029 gallon gasoline | | Kilowatt (kW) | \-- | 1kW = 1.341 Horsepower (HP) | ### Converting Natural Gas Energy to other fuels | Natural Gas Unit | Equivalent in Electricity | Equivalent in Gasoline | | ------------------- | ------------------------------------------ | --------------------------------- | | BTU | 1 BTU = 0.000293 kWh | 1 BTU ≈ 0.0000072 gallon gasoline | | Therm (100,000 BTU) | 1 Therm = 29.3 kWh | 1 Therm ≈ 0.88 gallon gasoline | | Cubic Foot (ft³) | 1 ft³ ≈ 0.0293 kWh (via 1 Therm ≈ 100 ft³) | 1 ft³ ≈ 0.0258 gallon gasoline | ### Converting Gasoline Energy to other fuels | Gasoline Unit | Equivalent in Electricity | Equivalent in Natural Gas | | ---------------------- | ------------------------------------------------------- | ----------------------------------- | | Gallon | 1 gallon ≈ 33.7 kWh | 1 gallon ≈ 121,000 BTU ≈ 1.21 Therm | | Miles per Gallon (MPG) | Miles per Gallon Equivalent (MPGe via 33.7 kWh ≈ 1 gal) | \-- | ### Virtual Power Plant (VPP) trials in the SF Bay Area URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/virtual-power-plant-vpp-trials-bay-area/ Last updated: 2025-04-25T18:17:34.000Z I’ve been invited to participate in two “Virtual Power Plant” programs here in the Bay Area through [PG&E](https://www.pge.com/en/newsroom/press-release-details.d13deebb-dbc7-462b-8ce8-891d85abb801.html?ref=ampmyhome.com) \- one with Span, and one with SolarEdge - and wanted to share the details and see what others think. Relatedly, I listened to a [panel of experts](https://lu.ma/SFCW25-Energy-Summit?tk=V7NZvX&ref=ampmyhome.com) at SF Climate Week try to define what a VPP is, as if asked to explain it to their neighbor. It turned out to be a challenging ask by the moderator, as most panelists described it in pretty technical, industry-insider ways. ## So what exactly is a VPP, or Virtual Power Plant? According to ChatGPT - > A Virtual Power Plant (VPP) is a digitally connected network of decentralized energy devices—such as rooftop solar panels, home battery systems, electric vehicles (EVs), smart thermostats, and connected appliances—that can be coordinated and managed collectively. These devices operate independently at individual homes or buildings but work together through software to provide grid-level services. > Rather than relying solely on large, centralized power plants, VPPs harness the combined power of these local assets to deliver energy where and when it's needed. Not bad, pretty easy to understand. By coordinating the power from thousands of homes with batteries and solar panels you can have the same impact as a traditional power plant. Yang Su of Sunrun at the above panel mentioned their [CalReady](https://www.sunrun.com/calready?ref=ampmyhome.com) program has 16,000 customers enrolled, with 58 Megawatts online. Interestingly, programs like this could become more relevant soon, as there is some recently introduced legislation in California - [AB 740](https://calmatters.digitaldemocracy.org/bills/ca%5F202520260ab740?ref=ampmyhome.com) \- that seeks to create a statewide strategy for the deployment of VPP’s at scale. I also think of “[Demand Response](https://www.energy.gov/oe/demand-response?ref=ampmyhome.com)” programs as related to this. In 2022, the California Governor’s office issued a [statewide text message alert](https://www.latimes.com/california/story/2022-09-07/a-text-asked-millions-of-californians-to-save-energy-they-listened-averting-blackouts?ref=ampmyhome.com) asking people to “conserve energy now to protect public health and safety” - which averted rolling blackouts in the state. This was a centralized action that allowed independent devices to be controlled at a massive scale, albeit with people taking manual actions, to reduce enough energy use to maintain the electrical grid without blackouts. Automatic demand response programs were originally introduced back in the 1970’s in response to the energy crisis, and typically involved [hardwired](https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/utility-and-grid-solutions/load-control-switches.html?ref=ampmyhome.com) devices connected to AC units that could be used to pause consumers' air conditioning when the electric grid was stressed. OhmConnect, now merged with Nest Renew as [Renew Home](https://www.renewhome.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com), sought to combine the two, with manual events shared via app and text messages and home automation with thermostats and smart plugs. ## Benefits of Virtual Power Plants To the consumer, VPP’s are potentially beneficial in the following ways: - **Lower Bills**: You can save money by using less electricity from the grid when it's most expensive (by using your battery). In addition, it can offset the need for utilities to build high-demand “[peaker plants](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peaking%5Fpower%5Fplant?ref=ampmyhome.com)” - new power plants that only run 5-10% of the time when demand is highest, resulting in less expense on the grid. - **Get Paid to Help the Grid**: When you reduce usage or share stored energy during peak times, utilities may reward you with bill credits or direct payments. Interestingly, Collin Smith of Leap mentioned in the above panel that end users in California cannot be compensated for battery discharges back to the grid - but it sounded like this is changing soon. ## Bay Area VPP Programs - and limitations Today, there are some specific limitations that exist with VPPs in this area. In particular, as I learned from the above VPP panel, the residential smart meter is used to measure the performance of the system participating, and only one device can be linked to the meter at a time - which means I can’t participate in both the Span and SolarEdge programs, I have to pick just one. So here’s the details of each: ### Span VPP program Span calls their program PG&E’s SAVE program - and offers up to $250 for participating in 10 events with the SPAN panel installed in my home called on to reduce electricity usage: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-24-at-2.07.18-PM.png) SPAN SAVE VPP Program ### SolarEdge VPP program SolarEdge calls their program California’s Demand Side Grid Support (DSGS) program - and offers $100 for participation in up to 35 events, with my battery: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-24-at-2.10.25-PM.png) SolarEdge DSGS VPP Program ### VPP Programs, My Questions and Thoughts What I found interesting, the PG&E gentleman on the VPP panel above brushed aside the debates and discussions about the monetary/compensation parts of these trials, and emphasized the need to just get going - but it’s pretty clear to me that if I can only pick one, I should pick the SPAN trial - as it pays 2.5X more for less than 1/3 of the events! So clearly the compensation scheme will matter here. Second, since I have an integrated system between the Span panel and the SolarEdge system and battery, it’s unclear to me if Span will be attempting to use the battery as part of their test, or if they’ll just be shutting down circuits. If it’s the latter, that seems far less useful than making full use of the battery as well. Has anyone else been involved in VPP trials? ### The Service Upgrade, cont URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade-cont/ Last updated: 2025-04-24T18:55:49.000Z In Part 1 of my saga with the [electric service upgrade](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/), I shared my story about the challenges of upgrading my 1960 California ranch house. In the US about 1/3 of homes, maybe more (a VP at PG&E mentioned in a panel talk on 4/23/25 that around half of homes in their 5M home service territory have 100 amp service mains) have the same challenge - a 100-amp service panel that some people say can’t support home electrifications or upgrades. Maybe you are one of these people! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-24-at-8.53.36-AM-1.png) Percent of homes with electric service capacity by home age So what to do? While many electricians say just upgrade your electric service, this can get costly and time consuming, as I found out! ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-24-at-9.02.47-AM-2.png) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-24-at-9.03.15-AM-3.png) Sometimes (as in my case) you’ll get directly hit by utility costs... shown above in item 2, and even if you don’t, these upgrade costs born by the utility are passed along to everyone in the form of increased electricity rates. Yet, as I had discovered, even if you’re stuck with a 100 amp main, in most cases, you don’t actually need to upgrade your utility electric service, because it’s very unlikely you’ll actually use all of your electrical appliances at once - ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-24-at-9.07.05-AM.png) > In fact, to prove it's possible to fully electrify a 100-amp house in the real world, a professor at Purdue's Center for High Performance Buildings set out with his grad students to test this out in the midwest - in the middle of winter - with a 2200 square foot, fully-electrified home with an EV. They showed you could in fact fully run the house by carefully controlling only the home thermostat and water heater run times ([graph of usage](https://bsky.app/profile/kevinjkircher.com/post/3lky2bkqhec2i?ref=ampmyhome.com) and [full paper](https://arxiv.org/pdf/2409.04884?ref=ampmyhome.com))! For my house, I needed a commercial approach, that would pass inspection for a traditional city code inspector. My discovery journey led me to **three options** \- ## First option: Create a “Watt Diet” This is a concept outlined by [Redwood Energy](https://www.redwoodenergy.net/watt-diet-calculator?ref=ampmyhome.com), that involves carefully outlining and planning your appliances and the circuits in your electric panel that connect them. Their website has an online calculator to help you create your own Watt Diet. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-24-at-9.58.25-AM.png) Example “Watt Diet” for an electrified home ## Second Option: Use an “Energy Management System” (EMS) An Energy Management System consists of a smart controller that can continuously monitor and control all the electrical circuits in your home. By doing so, the system can automatically shut down circuits to avoid an electrical service overload. And importantly, an EMS is a system recognized by the National Electric Code for serving exactly this purpose. The particular EMS I decided to purchase is the Span panel, which they market as a “smart electrical panel”. They talk specifically about how it can be used for energy management [here](https://techportal.span.io/s/app-note-span-energy-management?ref=ampmyhome.com). ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/IMG_2015.jpeg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/tempImagezzOb4C.gif) My Span panel EMS - roughed-in to circuits in my garage ## Third Option: New Products coming to market There are many new products coming to market that are not only really nice, high-quality products but that also address some of the issues with electrical service upgrades - such as [Copper](https://copperhome.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) and [Impulse](https://www.impulselabs.com/?ref=ampmyhome.com) electric stoves with built-in batteries, and low-power plug-in water heaters that can use existing 120-volt outlets. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-23-at-8.53.23-PM-1.png) New Electric Products and Appliances for the Home A great deep-dive discussing the above three options and many more was created by Lawrence Berkeley Labs, [here](https://homes.lbl.gov/sites/default/files/2023-01/BEST%20avoiding%20panel%20upgrades%20January%202023%5Fisw%5Fsm.pdf?ref=ampmyhome.com). ### Why did I choose to use the Span panel? I chose Option Two, and got a Span panel. Why I went this route is outlined below: - It solved the service-upgrade problem I had, at dramatically lower cost. While the Span panel is not an inexpensive product, it was much less expensive and avoided the substantial delay and disruption that an underground service upgrade would have caused. These cost savings alone would have justified it. - It integrates with solar and battery systems. In addition to providing load management, the Span also provides [whole-home management of circuits in a power outage](https://www.span.io/battery-install?ref=ampmyhome.com), for example shutting down EV, AC and Hot Water heater while keeping lights and the refrigerator running from battery in an outage. - I was able to find a provider that could install a complete solar + battery + Span system as a turn-key approach. [Cinnamon Energy Systems](https://cinnamon.energy/?ref=ampmyhome.com) was my local installer. I’ll talk about my solar installation experience later. ### Challenges with the Span panel As a relatively early adopter of this type of setup, there were some challenges, including: - **Permit coordination** \- for my renovation, there were two permits pulled - one for the house renovation that included electrical, and another for the solar and Span system. Ultimately this was a simple matter, but I did have to talk to the city permit desk to confirm that as long as the renovation permit referred to the forthcoming solar/battery permit we were good. - **Installation coordination** \- for my renovation we were replacing the entire electrical system in the house (it was [knob-and-tube wiring](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knob-and-tube%5Fwiring?ref=ampmyhome.com) with 65-year-old electrical panel) managed by a primary electrician working for our general contractor, separate from the solar contractor installing the Span panel. We ran into knowledge gaps between the two electricians, that resulted in a verbal fight in the garage one day that required me to intervene, and a bunch of re-work that required re-wiring the circuit breakers in the Span unit so that they would meet current code (Arc Fault and Ground Fault breakers). In reality, it would have been better if the primary electrician had installed the breakers and done the wiring into the panel directly, but then it would have been a slightly trickier set of contracts, as the Span installation was written as part of the Solar contract so that it could be eligible for the solar system 30% tax credit. While Span claims it’s easy for any electrician to just drop in any of a number of certified standard breakers, the reality is it got what I feel is unnecessarily complicated between the two installers, as Span requires certified contractors to “commission” the unit, and my primary electrician was not. - **Networking and integration with SolarEdge system** \- the Span panel and SolarEdge system communicate with each other over an Ethernet cable, and then the Span connects to the Internet for both units. At first this didn’t work, which required another site visit by the solar tech. Then, the Span mobile ap had a message saying it was “waiting for SolarEdge to approve” the connection, which would take a few days. When nothing happened after a few days, I had to reach out to Span support to followup with SolarEdge, and after another day finally the systems were communicating. But, the [PowerUp](https://support.span.io/hc/en-us/articles/19145049426199-What-is-SPAN-PowerUp?ref=ampmyhome.com) function was not enabled in Span - which again required me to reach out to a tech, this time the solar installer, to get the Span EMS system turned on. ## Avoiding Service Upgrade: Results After living with the system for 8 months, the Span EMS system has never kicked in - meaning, we never would have exceeded the capacity of the existing 100-amp service anyway. Shows just how conservative the National Electric Code really is. We have the following major electrical appliances: - An EV charger, 32-amp but I usually run it at 20 to take advantage of solar - Two electric ovens, one is 5.4kW and the other is 3kW - Regular electric dryer, 5kW - Central Air Conditioning, \~4kW - Heat Pump Water Heater, \~1.2kW (no backup resistance heat) We didn’t electrify our stovetop with an induction unit, because it seemed like that might push things (or primary electrician was *very* skeptical, but we pre-wired for it anyway), and none of the fancy battery units were yet available, as we’d ordered our appliances a long time ago due to the post Covid delays. Looking at the electric usage data, it looks like our highest 15 minutes of electricity usage was 14.4kW, or about 60 amps. So, still room for even more electric stuff in the future! ### The Service Upgrade - How many amps does my home need? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade/ Last updated: 2025-06-16T17:16:10.000Z If you live in an older house and want to make updates, do a remodel, or change appliances, invariably someone, usually a contractor or electrician, will say you need to "upgrade your electric service". ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/electric_service_panel.jpeg) My 100-amp electric service panel But do you, really? What’s involved, how much does it cost, and why would you need to upgrade your service? The argument that says you need to upgrade is this: If you use all of your electrical appliances at the same time, you’ll overload the wiring to your house. Is this dangerous? Maybe; but most likely what will happen is your main circuit breaker or fuse will trip, cutting off all the power to your house until you reset it. That seems mighty inconvenient. But what are the chances you’ll ever use all of your electrical devices at the same time? [Very low](https://filesnewbuilding.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/HomeEnergyAnalyticsStudiedOverYear.png?ref=ampmyhome.com), (only 2% of 22,000 homes in Californian used more than 88 amps anytime in a year, based on smart meter usage data) but still it could happen. ## Whole-House Electric Load Calculations This is where the “load calculation” comes in, and it’s written into the National Electrical Code: > ARTICLE 220 - BRANCH CIRCUIT AND FEEDER CALCULATIONS 220-1\. Scope. This Article provides the basis for calculating the expected branch circuit and feeder loads and for determining the number of branch circuits required. 220-2\. Calculation of Branch Circuit Loads. The load for branch circuits shall be computed in accordance with the provisions of this Section. So here’s a load calculation I had done for my place: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/NEC-Std-Electric-Load-Sheet.jpg) (There are a number of online load calculators you can use to do this yourself, such as [this](https://www.kopperfield.com/load-calculator?ref=ampmyhome.com) and [this](https://ask-the-electrician.com/residential-electrical-load-calculation.html?ref=ampmyhome.com#beginAdv).) The load calculation above shows I can power these things for under 100 amps! There’s only 3 problems - (1) I’d have to convert my dryer from electric to gas, (2) I couldn’t upgrade to a Level 2 EV charger, and (3) my house isn’t actually 1686 square feet - it’s 2300! So I needed to upgrade my service, right? ## Electric Service Upgrades Can Get Expensive But then things got complicated. **First issue**: The electric service to my house runs underground, across my driveway, through the yard, and across my neighbor’s back yard to a power pole near the edge of his property. Which means I’d need to tear up my driveway and my neighbor’s yard to do the service upgrade. **Second issue**: Scheduling a service upgrade with PG&E, my utility. For an underground service upgrade, there are a whole bunch of specific requirements, such as outlined in the below specs: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Min-Mtr-Set-Clearance-Req.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Trenching-Applicant_Checklist.jpg) ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Eng_Advance.png) Service Upgrade documents from PG&E in California In order to find out the costs of the upgrade, I would first need to pay PG&E $1,500 to start the process, without knowing final costs - but I’d still be on the hook for them!! (see the “Important” note on the invoice shown above). On the phone with PG&E, my contact estimated the total cost from PG&E would be about $10k just for the wiring and service installation - NOT including the cost of the trench, new conduit in the trench, or the electrical panel! My best guess was that it would be **$25-30k** all in. And based on my general contractor’s experience with another project, it would take at least a year to get the work completed!! PG&E by email estimated the engineering alone would be 6 months out. This was crazy!! Spend $30k and wait over a year to avoid the improbable chance I use all my appliances at once and trip the main breaker? No way - there had to be a better way. Turns out, there is. See [Part 2 of this story](https://www.ampmyhome.com/electricity/the-service-upgrade-cont/). ### Why Electrify? URL: https://www.ampmyhome.com/why-electrify/ Last updated: 2025-04-25T18:20:46.000Z In the US and western countries, pretty much everyone has electricity in their homes. But it’s not the only source of energy - most homes also have natural gas, and some homes use other sources, such as oil or propane. And of course 89% of cars use gasoline. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-04-at-2.19.06-PM.png) So why change? ## First reason: You can save money. Utility costs for energy are rising, and expected to continue rising. Here’s projection that was created by the California PUC in 2022, showing that all energy costs are expected to increase above the rate of inflation: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Energy-Costs-2.png) But, you can beat this - because, there’s another important trend - the decreasing cost of producing energy from the sun, with solar panels, has crushed most other sources: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Electricity_costs_in_dollars_according_to_data_from_Lazard.png) And you can put solar panels on your roof! As an example of how this can play out, I recently upgraded my house to solar, battery, insulation, heat pump water heater, and a few other things – here's my total home energy costs over the past 12 years - showing the increase, and then how these improvements knocked the monthly bills down. ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/Screenshot-2025-04-03-at-4.58.45-PM.png) Now, the bill hadn't just increased on it's own, we added air conditioning (the house didn’t have any) in 2017, and an EV in 2019... so part of the increase is due to increased usage in addition to higher gas and electric rates (but my actual rates went +50% in the last 5 years). ## Second Reason: Self-reliance, resilience, comfort. With electrification that includes solar panels and a battery, you’re no longer dependent on the grid - so, you can deal with power outages and keep going. Storms, accidents or Public Safety Power Shutoffs don’t leave you in the dark. You also have a choice - you can use power from the grid (which means your paying for it from your local utility monopoly), or you can use what you generate yourself, from the sun. Solar electricity is unique in this way - you can put solar panels on your roof, but it’s not possible to generate your own gas or oil! ## Third Reason: Health, Safety, The Environment. Electricity is safer than gas in your home - it doesn’t burn anything, so there’s no danger of carbon monoxide poisoning, and there’s no flames or fumes created. Environmentally, there’s no pollution or carbon emissions created in or around your home. Our World in Data has a striking comparison of the safety and environmental impacts of various energy sources: ![](https://storage.ghost.io/c/70/c8/70c8e8a7-04e1-4bed-9ef1-c3a4705e5dc7/content/images/2025/04/safest-form-energy.png) (The greenhouse gas emissions noted for solar are entirely due to the manufacture, transportation, installation and disposal of solar panels & systems.) With all of these benefits, why wouldn’t you make the switch? It turns out, the actual logistics can be quite daunting. I’ll share my experiences so you can learn from them and hopefully make your own journey easier.